[VaughnT]

I've been looking at my SA 1911 and find that the hole in the barrel link that the TD Lever passes through is considerably larger than the pin itself. Seems like a good idea to allow some slop, but how much is too much? Also, is it critical that the bottom lugs of the barrel rest on the pin or is it satisfactory if the link gives the support?

I have noted on several occasions that there are tiny flakes of metal being shaved off the recess cut into the frame for the bottom legs. To my eye, it appears that the wobble in the link/lever connection is allowing the barrel to slide back and forth in its cycle. Sometimes it knocks the side of the receiver, sometimes it doesn't.

Overall, accuracy seems decent depending on who's doing the shooting. My main concern is reliability (duty use) and proper design. If this isn't good, it goes back to the factory.

Your thoughts, as always, are most appreciated.

 

[VaughnT]

Thanks guys. I thought I'd heard mention of long-linking before, but wasn't sure if it was a cheap way to tighten your groups another nanometer or what. The way it is now, the pin's hole is fairly oversized, allowing a bunch of wobble, though the holes in the frame are perfect and hold it the TD lever stable. Combined with the daylight showing between the pin and the bottom lugs, I reckon it to be time for a trip to Springfield.

Do you think it better to request a new barrel or simply that the lugs be welded up and recut?

Also, considering that the slide lugs are chamfered on the corners, I guess to speed up the locking, how can you tell if they've been battered?

The flakes of metal are miniscule, like dandruff, but I'm thinking it will lead to more damage down the road. There is a cut on the lower, starboard barrel lug, at the junction of the lug and barrel proper, that has me worried. I'm not sure if it has been cut in by rubbing against the receiver, hence the metal flakes, or is just a production mark.

It'll go back just as soon as I can figure out what to tell them.

Thanks, again.