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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I do not think you should ever be affraid to ask your favorite gunsmith what is his method of cutting your critical hammer and sear engagements. What kind of JIG he uses or does he do it by eye. Ask him what kind of stones he uses. Ask him the height of the hammer hooks he uses. Ask him if he uses a full engagement or does he use a break away angle on the sear. What kind of finish do these engagements incorporate? How will he adjust your take up, will he use the mickey mouse method of bending a tab on the front of the trigger??? also ask him what kind of trigger he will use. Ask him how he will secure the over travel screw adjustment so it will not vibrate loose and cost you your life. These are some generic questions you have a right to ask. Ask what is the final grit of the engagements when he is finished. Remember you have 2 hammer hooks and they both must engage the sear exactly even. Just wanted to give you some additional knowledge. If you are using a series 80 system ask him the height of the plunger lever.

Teddy Jacobson / Pistolsmith
http://www.actionsbyt.com
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Ok, Teddy once we ask all these questions we need to know what all this stuff is supposed to be. What jig do you use, what sear angle do you use, what stones, how much weight on the sear leg and how much on the disconnector side of the sear spring, and how should they secure the overtravel screw?

Shouldn't we trust the gunsmith we chose to do it right rather than try to tell him how he should? How do you react when a customer questions your methods?

And one last question, please don't take this wrong, but I have to know. Is there anyone else out there besides yourself that knows what they're doing?

JJ
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I would say that 50 % of what I get in here has already been worked on by some one else, I am sick and tired of correcting the work of others, some of these people that send me work are good customers and some have bought used guns. I will not duck your questions. If you saw what I saw or if I could show you what people pay big money for you would be sick inside. As for securing the over travel screw I use an anorobic adhesive. As for my jigs I have had them made. As for what angles I use on my sear I use a 50 % engagement angle and a 50 % breakaway angle, all checked on a 30 power microscope. As for the tension of the sear part of the leaf spring I do not measure it with a scale, as for the center leaf it interfaces with my disconnector that has lubrication lines cut in and filled with an anti seize compound. Any other questions ????????????????????????
I also use a special hi temp silver solder for my internal adjustments that is an industrial product, and I buy most of my working supplies for other industries because they are more technically advanced than the gun smith industry.

Teddy
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I forgot to tell you what kind of stones I use, they certainly are not 2 dollar chinese stones that I bought at my favorite discount store. I own at least 1500 dollars worth of very good stones, some of which are RUBY POLY CRYSTELENE STONES which are made in Germany. They are made from sintered Ruby and are super hard I have them in all grades but every thing wears out just like I am so I constantly replace them, they are 70 dollars each. I also buy MYLAR sheets with a MICRON grade of polishing media equivilent to 2 to 3 micron size. I have all kind of different grade ceramic stones both cast and ground. I have an entire series of soft and hard arkansas stones in all grades and sizes. If you look at my website you will see I even sell a reasonablly priced stone to people in 400 and 600 grit. I also have an awful lot of diamond stones in all sizes and all shapes for various applications. Hope this now claries your concerns that I was picking on everyone with out good reason. I was not intentionally trying to offend anyone but a lot of people have no idea what I am even talking about. I can back up everything I say with samples of my work or show you work done by some one else or with technical information that would go right over your head. I have been studying this very subject since 1970, and that is a long time. I can even put you in touch with my customers who can tell you about the disasters I have straightened out for them including Glocks that have gone fully auto because of a gunsmith that got carried away with his favorite 2 dollar stone. I have documented invoices of what I talk about. I will not lie to anyone, and if my postings bother most of you I can stop immediately.

thanks
Teddy
 

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Teddy Please keep going, and Thanks from most, if not all for sharing your knowlege.

Speaking for myself, if I knew to ask some local "smiths" the questions that you are telling us to ask, from years of experience,I would have saved alot of heartburn and a lot of money sending their hack jobs to nationally know guys to fix.

I mean, if your life depends upon a Gun someone is working on they should be happy to provide answers...and The RIGHT answers IMO.

Someone smart once said that "Genius is just a very high level of skill consistently displayed"...consistent being the key word.

..and maybe that`s what sets( in alphabetical order :grin: ) the Burn`s, Heinie`s, Jacobson`s, Novak`s ,Vickers apart.







<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Blackjack on 2001-06-10 11:59 ]</font>
 

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How will he adjust your take up, will he use the mickey mouse method of bending a tab on the front of the trigger???
Just curious on this one. I've never been very trigger sensitive, but tried the little tab and it didn't work out :smile:
Does it involed building up an area on the trigger?
 

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Thanks for sharing all your information with us Teddy, I don't think anyone wants you to quit posting. Can you tell us what modifications that you do to the Videki trigger? Do you lighten it? Also 50 50 on the sear and breakaway is pretty standard it seems, I've read that in several books, what I was wondering was the angle you set your sears at. Seems that some gunsmiths like positive and some negative.

JJ
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
About the TABS on the trigger, its a quick and 1/2 ass way of doing it. I for one would never dream of using that method. Some people solder a shim on back of the trigger and others buy a sear with built up pads. Everything I do internally inside all pistols I drill and tap threaded holes and install screws and silver solder them in place when I am done. As for the angles I use I can not express it in degrees, I have simply selected the angles thru the years by experience and thru viewing it with my microscopes. Their are no room for mistakes in my world. That is why I work alone, and have no employees. I am not easy to get along with.

Teddy
 

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Dear Mr. Jacobson,
A short while back, there was a story in American Handgunner about their drop in sear/disconnector/trigger kits. The story claimed that they tried the 4 pound kit and it worked like a dream. Do you have any experience or opinions about this? I'm NOT a professional smith, just a decent amateur.
Best Wishes, Mark Shuell.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
If you will take notice all the big money advertisers get lots of ink in all the magazines. I think C&S has some good parts but they also have some very poor parts like their extended thumb safety for a BHP. I have no direct experience with their drop in kit. I do make an upgrade kit that I personally fit each one by hand and you can see it on my website. I do not have them in stock I just make them as they are needed. There are not enough hours in the day for me, as I have no help, I can't trust anyone to do critical work for me. Last nite SATURDAY I spent my evening working on my GLOCK article that will be finished shortly. I realize I did not fully answer your question about C&S but I have used and liked his 1911 hammer, but try talking to him or wilson or brown like you do me. Ask these guys when is the last time the personally did their own work. You can always email me thru my website I will answer promptly you wont have to wait 6 to 8 weeks.

Teddy
http://www.actionsbyt.com
[email protected]
 

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Mr. Jackobson,

I would like to hear your opinion on the hammer engagement angle. The factory angle is about 4 degrees less than 90. I always thought that it probably isnt a good idea to go to the 90 degrees as a lot of people do on a carry gun. I have had a diamond cutter made for my bridgeport set to a 88 degree angle. I know you stated that you dont have exact angles, but do you put some angle on it for that margin of safety? Of course the sear angle matches this one too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
TO PETER ZAHN in answer to you question about the hammer hook angle I personally always use 90 degrees. It is almost impossible to use an india stone in the fine grit to achieve the exact 90 degrees because these kind of stones are not capable of holding a true 90 degrees, even if you were to get the sharp 90 degrees on an india stone the first pass with your stone would crumble the edge of it. I understand exactly what you are saying, you are over engaging the hooks to improve the margin of safety. Many pistols incorporate this idea and it really does make for a safer engagement but it will not break as clean, as you will see the hammer rotate back ever so slightly before it breaks as you slowly pull the trigger. A lot of the foreign guns are set up like this. Remember when you deal with foreign guns like SA and PO and LLAMA and STAR ETC..... YOU ARE DEALING IN METRICS.

Teddy
 
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