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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I originaly saticfied my 10mm craving with a slightly butchered early model (4 digit SN) Colt Delta Elite. Being poor, I was not able to try other 10s without trading in the DE. So I embarked on a, unplanned, three year sample fest that included a Springfiled Omega, Bren, AMT, Parker, Thompson, and two GLocks. I have become partial to my Glock 20 & 29 and until recently they were the only 10s I still owned.
Still feeling the void left by my original DE, I recently happened upon a later model (5 digit SN) blued COLT DE for a suprisingly low price. I now have a decision to make and was directed here for quality advice.

This is what I want:
1) Colt 10mm tunned to shoot 2" groups at 50 yards WITHOUT A HICCUP using handloaded 180-200 grain jacketed bullets moving up to 1350fps.

2) Wide grip safety (Beavertail?) to keep the gun from biting the web on my hand.

3) Durable finish. Perferably OD green slide and frame with black (not blued) small parts and retain the high gloss flat sides and matte texture on the rounded edges.

This is what I have:

1) Blued Colt DE with very minor surface rust under and around the grip panels and on the starboard side frame aft of the trigger.

2) Hammer pin hole on the starboard side is elongated fore to aft. Blueing is all still there so looks like a factory messup, but Colt said if I was not the original owner then they would not honor the lifetime warrenty

3)not much invested in the gun so would be willing to spend $500 or so.

These are my questions:

1)Can the elongated hammer pin hole in the frame be welded up, frame rehardened, and hole redrilled, or would it be better to ream the hole out and press fit bushings in?

2) I want a shop/smith that is 10mm friendly (i.e. would enjoy the task of making a 10 run rather than think of it as a job he/she can do until some .45 work arives) and customer friendly so who are good canadites?

3) What kind of finnishes/color are avalibe on the Carbon Steel frame and slide?

4)Would I have more options if the Blued DE was traded for a Stainless DE to tune?

If you read this far thanks for your time.

Kelly (the male kind)
 

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I KNOW there are other 10mm fetishists out there... where you at? :grin:

I can pretty safely answer one of your questions: ordinary steel gives you more finish options than stainless. If you want it to LOOK kinda like stainless but be tougher, you can have it hardchromed. It can either be flat, satin or polished depending on how the base metal is treated. Hardchrome is the toughest finish available, period. Otherwise, there are about a bajillion different finish types made for steel. Some might work with stainless, but some won't.
 

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Kelly, I would stay with the Carbon steel Delta. Depending on the date of manufacture the stainless could tend to gaul in the rails. The firing pin can be replaced with an oversized pin, Available from Brownells. Go with the finish that you want. If its a hard use gun you can chrome it and then polymer over it. As for a Smith? I believe any of the top 1911 smiths understand the 1911 and the operating pressures of the different loads available. I've never had any feeding problems with my Elite's, it's a great gun.
 

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I'd say the hammer pin hole should be bushed. If you were against having the bushing silver-brazed in, maybe for refinishing reasons, the press-fit is fine. I'd say maybe put a head on the bushing, with a counterbore on the inside, just as double-insurance that it can never, ever fall out. If it should come loose, it is kept in place by the hammer. Or, maybe a small, blind retaining pin down from the top, the retaining pin's hole is then staked over. But there's not much room for that on a Series 80.

Welding the hole is starting to sound a little better!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Castle,
I am in White Settlement off Las Vegas Trail.

Ned,

I like the idea of a bushing with a head and counter bore on the insde surface of the hole. I am real leary of having someone weld on the frame. I also want the same person to repair the hammer pin hole that is accurizing the pistol so they can take full advantage of moving the hole or tightening hole tolerance to provide better sear disengament.

Does EGW have a web link?
 

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Oh, and this is in case you are wondering if my Delta Elite was accurate when I got it back from BCP... :grin:



That was shot by (somebody else) at 25 feet, unsupported *quick-fire* with cheapo ammo. I watched him put the holes in and it really *is* 5 shots, not 4 as it appears.

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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: CastleBravo on 2001-09-26 15:23 ]</font>
 

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Move that 10mm shootfest to Illinois and I'm in.

Going off on a minor tangent here, but following the custom 10mm track...

All I know is I want a full house 10mm. Big help, eh? Well, any thoughts on a commander size 10 vs. 5" govt. size? Or go the other way and have a 6" slide?

Cheers!
 

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You mean something like this? :grin:



10mm seems to lose or gain alot of velocity depending on barrel length. I'd probably stick to a 5" gun or maybe a 6" longslide. Finding a 5" 1911 in 10mm or .40S&W would be easy, but go smaller or bigger and it becomes a bit more involved to do.

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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: CastleBravo on 2001-10-02 17:56 ]</font>
 

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DUDE!!!!

For a sec I thought you were going to give me something insightful!!

CB, since you've proven that you can't shoot it to it's potential, I think your Delta's secretly pining for someone who can really appreciate her. So send her up here for let's say... ummm... six months or so and see if she likes me better :grin:
 

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I'm afraid it may take me several years of practice to decide if I can shoot it to its full capabilities. I'll get back to you then. :grin:
 
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