Well, if you scrape out the radius in the slide and do it without chatter (which takes some practice) you are on the right track.
I have seen disconnectors that begged for a very (very) light going over of the sharp edges with a fine Arkansas stone. Some stainless disconnectors I've seen lately are a lost cause. Slight differences in mfg tolerances may suggest a bit of interchange, looking for a better fit (no drag or click). Then, I would suggest anointing the disconnector radius in the slide with the sample of dry lube you are going to receive.(That's what I do.)
Staking a disconnector hole in the slide is a sure and certain mark of the very lowest form of gun butchery. It wouldn't work properly for any length of time, anyway. The professional method is to ream it out oversize and insert a properly dimensioned, reamed and angled bushing, which in the old days was silver soldered or today could be a press fit, set in place with red Loctite. This is a long, always aggravating process, but it is only resorted to as a last desperate measure to save a frame. I have not seen one this bad since the Remington Rand pistols disappeared into collections. But, what the hey, some of these clone makers are re-inventing the entire concept of tolerance drift. Thankew, computer programmed machine tools!
