To test for creep, very slowly depress the trigger until you feel the effect you described. Put your ear next to the hammer and touch the spur. If you hear a very slight click (as the sear point slips to the bottom of the hammer notch), you have creep. After applying the secondary angle, drag a black Arkansas stone lightly over the microscopically rough edge left when the secondary cut was made. Just enough pressure should be applied (usually only the weight of a 6" stone that is a half inch square) to remove the rough ridge. Then apply a good dry moly lube to the hammer notch.
Place the hammer and sear on your test plate and examine the mating surfaces as you press to release.
Don't confuse DRAG with CREEP. If y9u have done a few trigger jobs, you can instantly tell the difference. Again, most gunsmiths have never heard of lubricating parts with a dry, permanent moly lube, but Brownells and other suppliers stock several varieties. Never use a grease based moly lube if you have dry moly lube on your bench. The grease base will allow the lube to migrate and before a box of ammo has been fired, the parts will be partially bare or the grease will be diluted by powder and primer residue. Dry moly has a molecular affinity for cleaned steel parts and will remain, if not permanently, for a long time. Also, it does not retain residue like grease.
Incidentally, a 4 pound pull is a good average for inexperienced shooters. The more experience, the lighter the requested pull weight. (Ignore the propaganda about light pulls in the hands of experienced shooters being dangerous. Bullet placement is the name of this drill, and every gun is dangerous at all times.) If you feel that you are ready for a lighter trigger pull, I would respectfully advise you to get a second opinion.