[FortyFive]

I was shooting commerical 230gr FMJ today! The fun stopped when instead of bang it was just click. A couple of shooters and I checked out the round to agree the strike was indeed light. Two attempts were made to fire that round. Oil was noticed at the firing pin hole and a suggestion made that the firing pin should always be dry! Do you all agree that no oil in the firing pin hole, or on the spring? Will oil in and about the firing pin affect the strike? Previous to this round I have shot some 300 rounds, cleaned the gun and then started on the new ammo. I cleaned the gun and will test again later this week. What say you...your thoughts please.

 

[Guest]

Fourty Five,
Almost all commercial grade lubricants have pentrating charcteristics. You are correct, applying oil/lubricants to your firing pin spring/hole is indeed a very bad idea.
Never oil your cartridges, although primers are slightly resistant to moisture, oil and solvents will penetrate and neutralize the primer very quickly. If your firing pin channel is dirty you can blow it out or use a channel brush to clean it, always keep your cartridges and your firing pin are oil free.

_________________
Think, Plan, Train, Be Safe.
Thanks,
David

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: David DiFabio on 2001-06-02 22:11 ]</font>

 

[GLV]

What were you using for camparison in determination of a light strike?

If you were shooting factory, several things could cause the problem. I have seen factory rounds with no anvil, no priming compound, and no powder. The primer could have been contaminated before it was put in cartridge. I doubt that a small amount of oil in firing pin channel would have caused your problem.
GLV

 

[FortyFive]

Thanks David & GLV! I cleaned the shooter and made dam sure the firing pin was clean and dry. Your right GLV, it was one round that would not fire out of 2 different manufactures. Shot about 80 rounds OK. The only strange thing was a mark or small indent right near the primer strike. This happened on maybe 4 or 5 rounds and went away. Is it true that if the hammer spring(main spring) is changed the firing pin spring may have to also be changed to a stiffer one??? Has anyone every came across that claim??

 

[Shane1911]

On 2001-06-03 15:28, FortyFive wrote:
Is it true that if the hammer spring(main spring) is changed the firing pin spring may have to also be changed to a stiffer one??? Has anyone every came across that claim??

I believe you mean changing the mainspring to a lighter one? You should not need to change your firing pin spring regardless of your mainspring. As long as your gun isn't a tricked out race gun with a super-light trigger pull, most mainsprings still have more than enough tension for reliable ignition regardless of firing pin spring weight.

That being said, I always use an extra-power firing pin in my guns, and I do put a very, VERY light coating of oil on my firing pin.

 

[Teddy Jacobson]

I need to know more details about your problem. Most gunsmiths cut your springs and you then lose the correct timing of a spring. In your case I would have to ask a few questions to pin point the problem. In a 1911 most every one uses 18 or 19 lb hammer springs, I do not, or they actually whack off 3 or 4 coils which could cost you your life. As far as the lubrication goes do not ever put lube on an extractor or breech face or a firing pin or fp spring if you are going to carry that gun. YOU MUST SEAL ALL YOUR PRIMERS IN YOUR CARRY GUN, YOUR LIFE DEPENDS ON IT. I live in reality other people do not look at things like I do. There was a story of a cop in South Fla. years ago that used wd40 to lube his carry gun, and the penetrating lube got in his primers and when he needed his gun it did not work and now he is in the ground.

Teddy
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