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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I would like to do the slide on my 1911 over from plain parkerized from the factory I have a few scratches on the slide.I like to ask will this finish hold up and what type of method is used to blast off the old finish on the slide.
I wonder can I do this myself or better yet just send the slide out to have it done.
 

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I have used gunkote on several guns. I sand blast them to strip the finish. If it has night sights they will need to be removed. they can't handle the baking temp...I tried.
If the are plain or white dot I leave them on then just redo to dots
But the 2400 series Gunkote over a blasted part and using their phosphate primer before applying the paint is very durable and looks good. But you have to bake it for it to be durable.
I had no problem using the stuff but I have painted cars for years as well.
So depends on your skill level. Its easy to use if you have painted before.
Some of the air dry finishes are easier to use but not near as nice.

You can bake it in your kitchen oven but it will smell bad for a couple hours. Married? :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Must you strip the parkerized I here some say the base parkerized work great for a base coat and it just needs to be cleaned well.
Paint that no problems been doing street rods over the last 20 years here is my last truck I finished in 1999 I like to shoot CENTARI then colored sanded and buffed
 

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I do a lot of Duracoat so I have blasted and parkerized a lot of small parts and then coated with GunKote from Brownells and it seems to hold up both ways equally BUT I use GunKote only on smaller parts and things when it's not cost effective to mix spray and then clean all the equipment to duracoat. Just my 2censt worth.
 

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I've done, duracoat, gunkote, and moly resin and to me moly resin is then only one that stands up to use. The others tend to rub off easier. IMO
 
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