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If you mean scratching, the correct repair is to use a Scotchbrite polishing pad to resurface the area.

Scotchbrite pads are sold by hardware stores, automotive stores for use in painting cars, and can be bought online.
I don't know if grocery stores where you are sell these but here they sell a coarse version for scrubbing kitchen pots. Those are usually a Green color.
Those are too abrasive for reworking a stainless finish so I'd recommend finding some there or online.

Usually the Red and Gray colored pads are about right for use on stainless guns.

To use, rub the damaged area with the coarse pad until the marks are gone then finish with the Fine pad by "stroking" the pad in the same direction the original grained finish ran to restore the factory look.
Stoking the pad to finish prevents leaving tiny circular scratches where a pad is reversed when rubbing.
Just look at the barrel and you can see the direction the grained finish runs, just stroke in the same direction to finish the job.

If the scratches are too deep, you may need to carefully use some Fine grit wet or dry sand cloth to remove the scratches, then finish with the Scotchbrite pad.
Use the sand cloth with a large eraser or wood stick to keep the area even.

ebay is one source of these synthetic polishing pads. You might check ebay in your area........

3M 64659 & 64660 Scotch Brite Durable Flex Hand Sanding Pads 4 of each Red&Gray | eBay

Also check hardware stores and automotive stores that sell car painting supplies.
 

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Romanson,
One great thing about Stainless vs. Blued is that the surface can be pretty easily touched up un-noticeably. Flitz polishing compound is also good for shallow abrasions. If you bead blast, you will wind up with a 'frosted' looking gun. Never polish too deeply so you start getting down to the roll marks on the frame or barrel. And PAY THE MONEY to have it polished by a professional- not just someone with a wheel in their garage. Stem does have a correct 'grain direction' like wood does; and it's nice to have a polisher who knows these things. in the "Old Days' at Colt, it could take as long as 11 years to get promoted to "polisher..." that is one of the reasons that Colt's Bluing was for years considered the best in the industry... Funny how Colt doesn't make any Blued Pythons in their new production!
 

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If you want a bright polish finish, just use a good metal polish and a microfiber cloth to polish the metal.
This can take a while and won't look like a true factory bright polish but it looks very shiny.
Be careful to keep the metal polish out of the internal parts of the gun.

Bead blasting is a complicated story......
Bead blasting can't be repaired as easily as a satin factory finish, or a bright polish.
The only way to restore scratches or abrasions is a fresh bead blast.

If you want to bead blast there are some important steps.
First the gun has to be 100% disassembled and the barrel and chambers at both ends have to be plugged to keep the blasting out.

Next, you have to be very careful about the blaster set up.
Either the blaster has to be fully cleaned out and refilled with all fresh blasting beads, OR the blaster has to be one that's been used ONLY for stainless steel or aluminum....NO carbon steel.
The reason is, the pressure will embed tiny particles of carbon steel in the softer stainless and that can rust later, ruining the surface.
I once had a customer who bead blasted an aluminum pistol frame in a garage bead blaster that had been used for car parts.
He was shocked when his aluminum gun started showing signs of rust.
If you go with a bead blast, I recommend not trusting the person with the blaster about this. All too often they figure it won't happen and they just lie about what the blaster was used for.

For those reasons, unless you really want the bead blasted look I'd either use the Scotchbrite pads to restore the factory grained finish, or use the metal polish to give it a bright shine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It works , litlle Schochsbrite and gunsmith who knows his stuff.
As you can see the line is gone.
He is also against bead blasting.
So the factory finish will stay.
What he , the gunsmith sugested is that i dont bring gun for just a scratch or two , then to bring it every half year because , it will have some holsterwear and some scraches from usage....
 

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Hello Romanson,
You should also buy a zipper-close 'gun rug' case for your 4" S&W. I believe you will need a 10" or 12" long case. The case should cost about USD $15-$20 in Montenegro. This will protect your gun when you put it away.
 
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