On 2001-08-30 13:14, ANTQ_COLT_FAN wrote:
Lou,
Thank you very much for the accolades, coming from you it means alot. The process I use is fairly simple:
I hand draw each holster and then trace it onto the leather, cut it out and dye the insides and then I use a wood rasp to rough the areas of the "wings" and clamp those areas and let them dry for at least 24 hours
I then trace onto the leather the stitching lines and use a stitching groove tool to cut the stitch lines in the leather
I then use a 4 prong punch to punch the holes and stitch it all by hand with a saddle stitch, and double stitching where the stitching is near the entry points of the holster
I then wet the leather in tap water for about 10 minutes
I wrap the pistol in "saran wrap" or use a plastic bag and then press the pistol into the holster and then bone it to the shape of the pistol
I let it dry for 24 hours or more
I clean up the edges with a dremel, an edging tool and use an edge burnishing compound, I think its gum tragacanth, to smooth everything
I then apply the finishing dye and let it dry for a day or two and then apply shoe polish and buff and it's done.
Probably a little more lengthy answer to your questions, but hey its great to get to chat with a professional such as yourself.
(And I accept any helpful tips) :grin:
Colt Fan,,You got the process pretty well down pat. You're very welcome for the compliment. You deserve it.. :grin:
Now here's how we do it:
1. Cut the pattern
2. Dye the pattern. We dip dye using 5 gallon
drums.
3. Allow the dye to 'flash off', then edge bevel the inside edges that will not be stitched, like the mouth, and muzzle of the pattern.
4. Crease the edges with a #3 creasing tool, then apply hard wax of appropriate color to edges that will not be stitched, and polish the edges on a buffing wheel.
5. apply the name stamp, and weapon I.D.
6. Apply cement, allow to dry, apply stitch patterns, and perform stitching.
7. Machine trim all stitched edges, dye edges, and wax edges on a hot wax wheel to achieve a hard waxed edge. Buff edges to a gloss.
8. By this time, the dye has lightened up, and the leather is dry. We then re-dip into dye, or (for black) HOT water, for about 20 seconds. Insert mold, or gun, and press the leather around the gun in an arbor press with
40 durometer rubber 2" thick. (Note: 40 durometer is about the hardness of a pencil eraser.)
9. Gun and holster remain in press for aprox 1 minute for molding. Then the holster and gun are removed, and the leather is hand boned to enhance the lines of the weapon, and to insure correct fit, along with allowing a sight track using a 3/8" wood dowel to create a 'tunnel'.
10. holster (with gun still in place) is then buffed on horse hair brushes via machine, and once again the edges are buffed to bring up the wax shine.
11. Gun is removed from holster, and holster is placed into a low heat oven, (aprox 110 degs). Holsters are left to dry slowly overnight.
12. Next morning the holsters are removed from the oven and buffed again to remove any oxidation from the dye.
13. Holster is then sprayed with an acyrillic finish to seal the leather, and provide a shine.
14. back into the oven to dry as the finish is a water based formula. After drying for aprox two hours, they are given a final buff.
15. Holsters are checked for flaws, and then fitted with mostly real guns to determine proper fit, and adjusted as necessary. Snaps, and hardware are applied last.
16. Bagged, and shipped to customer! :grin:
Whew! I'm tired :grin:
Lou
