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How would YOU do it?

2K views 7 replies 5 participants last post by  JJ 
#1 ·
Here's a picture of the front of the dustcover of my Taurus PT99AF (alloy frame, "99" being simply a "92" with adj. sights). As you can see, there is a great big fat nick in it (please ignore the Taurus factory machine marks to the right :grin:).
Caveats: dustcover cannot be shortened (it is already at minimum length), and personally i think contouring the edge to remove the nick looks a bit unprofessional, so how would you do it?
I think it'd be interesting to hear how the various 'smiths here would do that kind of thing!
Anyway, here's the picture:
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And, just for the hell of it, here's a picture of the triggerguard where I've chopped off that silly hook:
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b0ne and Associates (who must remain anonymous for national interests)

P.S. Excuse the low picture quality, I'm poor.


<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: b0ne on 2001-06-16 21:44 ]</font>

Edited to delete links to pictures which no longer exist.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: b0ne on 2001-07-07 03:52 ]</font>
 
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#2 ·
On 2001-06-16 21:41, b0ne wrote:
As you can see, there is a great big fat nick in it (please ignore the Taurus factory machine marks to the right :grin:).
Caveats: dustcover cannot be shortened (it is already at minimum length), and personally i think contouring the edge to remove the nick looks a bit unprofessional, so how would you do it?
Uhhmmm... Make another nick on the other side so it's balanced :grin:

You say it can't be shortened... Can't imagine it would be more than a few thousandths to lose the nick, but then, it's hard to tell how deep it is...

I'd be interested to hear the Pro's on this one... Nice for the notebook... :wink:
 
#3 ·
OK, here's a picture from the top, to see the depth:

Using my feeler gauges and eyeballing it, it's about .025" deep! Trimming that much off the front would expose the edge of the bottom of the slide that shrouds the recoil rod and spring, and look real ugly. The dustcover should have been longer to begin with, but as we all know, you can only remove stuff, not add it (unless you got a welder and a steel frame; I sure ain't TIGging anything on this alloy frame lest I damage its heat-treating, and I don't have a TIG anyway :grin:).
 
#4 ·
First things first, I'm NOT a gunsmith. See tag line below.

Next piece of business, a question: How do you want it to look when done?

If welding, tigwelding, etc. are out of the question and you can live with a bit of difference in coloration after finishing, I would suggest filling the ding with JB Weld and finishing appropriately.

_________________
The username is a (tongue-in-cheek?) comment on my shooting ability not a business name.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Accuracy Ltd on 2001-06-16 23:42 ]</font>
 
#5 ·
I would take one of my smaller files and put a radius along the inside and re face the front of the dust cover. Keep your file line consistent along the radius. Clean file marks with dressing stones, then do a final clean up on the Baldor buffer using ultra fine "scotchbrite" weel. Theres likely better ways, BUT thats how I would do it.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: RMLamey on 2001-06-17 00:12 ]</font>
 
#7 ·
Oops, I guess this belongs in the 'home workshop' forum. Although I was eager to hear how the pros would do their stuff. Oh well, I suppose there are trade secrets, so next time I'll make sure to stick it in the other forum. :smile:
 
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