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And just thought that I would pass along the information.

I have the 20C. It functions well and shoots very accurately but, I read about the "trigger stop" and being a fan of those, thought that I would install one and see how it went. I already had a 3.5 lb DC which was clean and smooth. It takes some time and patients to adjust the stop once installed, but now that I've had time to test it's value, I would recommend it to folks who have not yet tried it.

Also, with that install, I put a SS guide rod and full power spring in this pistol and have to report an obvious increase in the pistols inherent accuracy!

The firing pin "sear" bearing surface is all thats left to consider now. Although it has been highly polished, pulling the trigger tends to "compress" its spring as the DC DCS! This is not a desireable quality on hammers and I can see no value to this condition with this striker system. My new striker has not arrived yet. When it does, I'll move forward with this TIC... and let you know.
 

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I also own 20 c , only glock that needs compensator in my opinion , had glock 20 traded it for 20c ,after i shot one.Only mod i have made is camo Hydro-dipped whole gun its cool .
 

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Nice work Trapper, hey what ss guide rod did you get? can you recommend any for the 17? Its been something I've been meaning to do.
Yeah I read about that water transfer finish the other day. Was thinking about trying it some time on my 7600 rifle stocks. A buddy gave me this link the other day. Cant vouch for these guys though as I havent used them and don't know anyone who has.
Camo Dip Kit - Do It Yourself Water Transfer Camo Dip Kit
 

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The firing pin "sear" bearing surface is all thats left to consider now. Although it has been highly polished, pulling the trigger tends to "compress" its spring as the DC DCS! This is not a desireable quality on hammers and I can see no value to this condition with this striker system. My new striker has not arrived yet. When it does, I'll move forward with this TIC... and let you know.
First off, if I've misunderstood what you were intending to do in your post, ignore this reply. I'm a big fan of tinkering with Glocks, or any gun for that matter. Just understand the mechanics of the gun before starting.

Striker fired, double action or "safe action" guns are a different animal than hammer fired, single action guns. Hard to compare their methods of operation, and trying to make a striker fired, double action or "safe action" gun feel like a hammer fired single action gun can cause "issues".

Be careful when you start eliminating the pre-travel on Glocks.

The function of the pre-travel is to finish compressing the striker spring, AND disengage the firing pin drop safety.

If you get rid of all of the pre-travel, you've defeated the firing pin drop safety. You've also probably defeated the trigger safety, that little tab on the trigger.

What you then have is a single action pistol with a light trigger (no problem with that), but with reduced sear engagement and no safety.

If the striker is released, for any reason, the gun will discharge.

If you look at those guns, the tolerances can hardly be called tolerances. They're designed to be reliable, and that design necessitated (in my opinion) a good deal of sear engagement to remain safe. Feel the up and down, and side to side play on the slide. Look at the flex in every part of the Glock frame. The slide rides on little stainless steel tabs that are embedded in the frame. Designed for running when caked with sand, mud, snow, dirt, lint, or anything else that could get in there. Not designed for rigidity. I am of the opinion that getting rid of the pre-travel to the extent that you're talking about would not be a very good idea.

In an 1911 type gun, the hammer, sear, and disconnector are anchored by pins into a rigid steel or aluminum frame. No chance for them to wiggle or have any play between them. That's why they are easily tuneable for light, safe, single action triggers.
 
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