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What's the best way to improve the trigger pull on a Hi-Power?

I just purchased a MK III and was wondering if its better to spend the $200+ dollars for a smith to do it or can I drastically improve the trigger pull simply by changing the trigger, firing pin, and hammer springs to lighter ones?
 

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Your choice, of course, but it's easy to get the trigger a lot better.

Without stoning or anything, you can remove the magazine disconnect, change out the mainspring (hammer spring) and firing pin spring with reduced power ones (either the kit from C&S or order what you want from Wolff) and (I would do this, anyway) change out the trigger return spring with a stiffer one (from Wolff or Marstar) for a quicker reset. This will VASTLY improve your trigger.

Or you could have a reputable 'smith do some stuff to it, whatever that particular 'smith happens to do to a hi-power trigger.

The springs that I've mentioned above would probably total less than $15 overall. If you're comfortable in disassembling your hi-power and replacing springs and testing it for function, then that's definitely the cheapest way to go.
 

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money is the consideration as to how good a trigger you are willing to pay for in labor. Parts,go with C&S trigger kit I did. You will not be sorry. DO not attempt to install if you are not up to it.MY mark 3 came to me little used and ready to go, almost asI am left handed and it needed an ambi. safty also C.&S. You did not ask however I will tell you to try Mec.Gar. mags.they work well.
 

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I'm not sure replacing firing pin spring with a lighter one is a good idea. Not being a striker fired gun like the glock, it will have no affect on trigger pull. While it may apply less resistance to the hammer (with a lighter spring) thus giving harder hits on the hard euro primers that may not fire with a light hammer spring, the drawback is weaker retention of the slide stop. I've had no trouble using a lighter hammer spring and a HEAVIER firing pin spring.

I also note that wolff includes with their reduced power recoil springs and extra power fp spring. I'd like to know their reasoning for it and see if its similar to mine.
 

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Mark:

I've used a lighter firing pin spring on occasion because the 22# hammer spring included with the C&S kit will not always (in my experience) strike the firing pin hard enough with a regular power firing pin spring installed to ignite the primer...therefore the lighter firing pin spring.

However...if you go up to a 24# hammer spring, it seems to accomodate regular power or extra power firing pin springs. Odd that 2# difference does that.

The 24# also gives a "crisper" feel to the trigger than the 22#, which is a little weak feeling.
 

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The advice on reducing the trigger pull is pretty accurate. I was talking with Ralph at Cylinder and Slide the other day because I was having a new hammer installed on my HP. The trigger pull with any work done on the hammer went from 4 pounds to 7.5 pounds.
[C&S did a trigger job on with the old hammer]His comment was that 90% of the reduce is in the hammer. So just buying a new hammer may not get you all the reduction you want.

Like the other post said, unless you are really comfortable in the disassembly/assembly of a HP you really might be better off having someone who does HPs for a living do the work.

Personally, I like C&S, but I have seen Robars work. He has gotten the pull down to three pounds. This is great for IDPA/USPSA type stuff but it seems most people recomend 4 pounds or better for personal carry. They say lawyers really go after pistol modifications if the pistol is involve in a legal proceeding.

good luck
 
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