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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I fired 90 rounds (20 were +P Triton 230 gr--ouch!)through my G21 the other day and when I disassembled the gun, I noticed that the frame rails and slide grooves were completely dry--no oil or greese was present. The copper lube was cleaned out years ago, so it was DRY.

I guess the oil I put on months ago (Wilson) had evaporated.

Did I hurt my G21 by shooting 90 rounds through it "dry?" :sad:

I promise I won't do it again!

Just how much lube should be placed on a Glock's frame rails and slide grooves?

Also, which is harder steel: The frame rails or the slide?

Thanks

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: slice on 2001-10-13 00:48 ]</font>
 

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Your pistola is fine.

Oils tend to evaporate or run off after a few weeks. Regular preventative maintenance is the key. I clean and lube my carry guns weekly, or after every range session, whichever comes first.

Wilson's Ultima Lube is good stuff.

I use a pipe cleaner folded into a U shape to clean and lube the slide channels, and a Q-tip works well everywhere else. I put a thin film of lube/protectant on all metal surfaces, leaving a bit more on the wear areas. I completely disassemble my Glocks for a thorough cleaning every 500 rounds or so.

I've been testing Eezox, and it is very good. It doesn't evaporate or leave an oily film, and always does excellent in wear and corrosion tests.

Disassembly instructions:
http://www.glockmeister.com

http://www.eezox.com
http://www.wilsoncombat.com
http://www.proteclubricants.com(Makers of Ultima Lube)
 

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Glocks slide rail grooves need very little lube. One easy way is to put one drop of your preferred oil in ea. groove @ the slides rear then stand it on its "nose" while you clean/lube the frame. The actual frame rails don't really need any lube.
BTW, The lube point you don't want to overlook is the connector trigger-bar interface.
 

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One drop on the back end of each slide rail groove, as denoted above; then one drop on the trigger bar/connector interface, and then one drop coating the entire surface of the barrel.

FWIW, on my carry guns, I use the Sentry Solutions DRY lubricants (http://sentrysolutions.com/)
because they last a LONG time and they don't atrtract sand and dust, which is very abundant here in the desert southwest.

On my range guns, at the recommendation of Sir Heinie, I use Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil. Works great, and a quart lubes a LOT of guns!
 

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I also use the Mobil one FWIW.

Nearly any lub will work. Some beter than others and for different conditions.

Most of the time I use carbon and other fouling. Seems to work fine until I leave the dang thing laying around and some one cleans it. ;-( :wink:

sb
 

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On 2001-11-03 13:11, tribologist wrote:
not that i would buy a Sig.
I don't blame you there...finding a better firearm after purchasing a few Glocks sure can be heavy on the pocketbook! :razz:
(sig lover here).

But to contribute something useful, and quoting directly from my Glock Armorer's Manual:

To properly lubricate your GLOCK pistol after it has been thoroughly cleaned and dried, the following lubrication procedures should be followed: Using a quality gun oil, lubricate the barrel, the barrel hood, the barrel lug, and the inside of the slide where the barrel hood rubs against the slide. Take ONLY one drop of oil on your finger and rub each slide rail, or put one drop of oil in each slide rail cut. Once the slide is replaced on the receiver after reassembly, the oil drop will be distributed equally along the slide rails. Most important is the drop of oil where connecter and trigger bar meet.

If not properly lubricated, the connector and/or trigger bar may be damaged and produce a hard trigger pull, resulting in their needing to be replaced.

This will assure proper lubrication of your GLOCK pistol without over-lubricating. GLOCK pistols are designed to operate properly with only small amounts of lubrication.

CAUTION: Do not over-lubricate your GLOCK pistol. Large quantities of oil or grease will collect unburned powder and other residue, which could interfere with proper functioning of your GLOCK pistol.

CAUTION: Do not put oil inside firing pin channel or magazine tube. Firing pin channel, magazine tube, and breech face should be wiped dry before reassembly. Leaving solvent or lubricant in these areas could cause contamination of primers and failure to fire.

There's a nice little picture to demonstrate all of this, but I don't have access to a scanner to be able to scan it for you guys. The key point is - don't over-lube your Glock. Too much lube is a bad thing when it comes to these pistols, and I can't tell you how many customer's Glocks we've taken apart to find the inside coated with all manner of gun juice. Hope this could help you out.
 

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I drench my glocks in triflow including the striker channel. When I am done I use compressed air to blow it out. I have removed and looked inside after 3000 rounds and I see a clean yet lubed hole where the striker lives. I use 1911's and sigs for serious gun work, the glocks are for fun , but I think I prefer cleaning out the striker channel every time I shoot as opposed to trying to avoid ever getting oil in there... and some day having a failure because oil got into the accumulated crud . I have always heard a few stories of corrosion in the striker channel left dry... although I have never seen that myself.
 

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"I've been testing Eezox, and it is very good. It doesn't evaporate or leave an oily film, and always does excellent in wear and corrosion tests. "

I am a distributor for Eezox. It is the most amazing product I have ever seen or used. And it's the only product on the market to actually not stop during a lubricity test.

Just my .02
 

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I've used TryFlow for years.For the last couple of months I've been useing
TriFlow dry lube with zero problems,It does leave a visible film but its
very slick.
I dont worry about dirt buildup because I clean the gun after every firing sesson.
Last weekend I ran 1100 rounds in one day with no malfuntions.
Givin this I'm sold on this dry lube,also it stays on the gun until you remove it.
 
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