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I'm pretty good about field stripping and cleaning my Kimber Gold Combat. I have to admit that in about 12,000 rounds, I've never done a full detail strip, clean, and lube. Maybe ignorance is bliss. How often should a full detail strip, clean, and lube be done? Thank you. Mark Shuell.
 

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On the other hand, I do a detail disassembly and inspection/lube every 5000 rounds.

I feel this is "best" but I think if you ask 10 people, you'll get 10 different answers.
 

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squirt the frame everywhere with brake cleaner( grips removed please ) and allow to dry, then clp and allow to drain/dry long term detail disassembly gives confidence on working on the pistol but can cause some wear
 

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That's if you want crap to get into every little crevice and you don't worry about causing a hydrauylic lock of the firing pin and you have some primers from Mars that won't allow liquid to enter by capillarity.
TRhis is not a snide answer. I've seen lots of long term damage to pistols caused by faulty "quick and dirty" use of aerosol cleaners and lubes.
It is still best by all measures to strip the frame and slide at intervals, wash with boiling water and dishwashing detergent to which just a pinch of baking soda has ben added, air dry and rub down with paper towels, then properly re-lube the pistol with a dry moly lube and supplement with a top quality grease that performs under pressure and heat conditions and has a great tenacity.
If I catch any of you using aerosol products on any firearm in my class, I'll hand you a pair of white cotton gloves and make you run your fingers over every surface of the gun. Guess what the result always is?
Which is less trouble, a white glove inspection or a failure during a lethal confrontation and trying to explain to the surgeon where you think the bullet is lodged?

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: John Lawson on 2001-04-25 11:54 ]</font>
 

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Well Doc...just 'fore I passed out, I coulda' swore you just said"ok bend over!"

...You don't have any trouble gettin' your point across, do you sir?

:lol:
 

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My friends, of which (as you know)you are one, have said that perhaps someday I'll learn to say what I am thinking.
When Leonidas was standing in the pass at Thermopylae the first night, his soothesayer asked if he wanted him to read the entrails of a lamb.
Leonidas replied: "Today we carve our own omens."
I have had several students return to my police science classes and tell me that I was the gruffest, crustiest, most irritable old curmudgeon thay had ever met, but what I taught them had probably saved their lives. That's what I care about, not finesse or tact. Just get directly to the point.
 

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On 2001-04-24 21:23, John Lawson wrote:
It is still best by all measures to strip the frame and slide at intervals, wash with boiling water and dishwashing detergent to which just a pinch of baking soda has been added, air dry and rub down with paper towels, then properly re-lube the pistol with a dry moly lube and supplement with a top quality grease that performs under pressure and heat conditions and has a great tenacity.
Well John, I've seen the "clean your Glock with Simple Green" video, but boil my BCP? Dishwashing soap to cut the oil/grease right? Baking soda why?

Dry moly lube? What are you using?

When I'm taking the whole thing apart, I typically wipe everything with Hoppes, brush where needed, wipe again with cleaning patches. Q-tips and pipe cleaners etc. I'll admit that I'm not getting every oil drop off of it, and am open to a better way, but the thought of boiling the gun never occurred to me. What will that do to my night sights?

On reassembly, I've been using the Wilson Combat syringe of oil, and their syringe of grease on the slide rails, and barrel/bushing. [Tactical oil for the (ch)Airborne Ranger!] I've also been known to wipe things down with Militec - it seems to protect things better than other oils I've tried (scientifically measured by using it to wipe down my bead blasted Benchmade CQC7 blade - it stays cleaner longer, and that blade is a dirt magnet otherwise).
 

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John,

My cleaning routine is to use rod and brush for the bore, toothbrush everywhere else, with Hoppes or Shooters Choice or whatever is the latest sample that I got for free.

After a thourough cleaning, Gunscrubber or brake cleaner is used to get all of the solvent/dissloved crud off, and then I re-lube the gun.

What will the white glove show me, and how should I modify this routine?

Thanks!
 

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ANY penetrating oil is poison around a gun you use for personal defense. Aerosol penetrants are double poison. However, if you feel lucky, do what you like; only a few people die as a result of poor maintenance and you may never be one of the statistics.
You add soda to the water and detergent to prevent rusting. Sometimes the doorbell rings, the phone rings or Waldo wants to go for a walk. The soda will allow it to stand after the hot water evaporates without rusting. Heckfire! Gunsmiths fave been doing this for a long, long time.
What will the white gloves show you? You, perhaps nothing. Me, that you are spreading crap from one place to another, not floating it away and getting rid of it.
Some solvents have a deteriorating effect on polymers. If you ever want your Glock dissolved, I have just the solution for you.
On the other hand, dishwashing detrgent is easy to obtain, beneficial to man and machine and it removes (floats away) carbon and ground glass (primer residue) leaving a clean surface for lubricants to adhere to.
The soda is not essential, but it guarantees no oxidation of steel or iron. (Ever clean up after black powder?)
You don't need to detail strip your carry gun every time you clean it, obviously. But, a serious professional will do so at intervals depending on his use of the gun.
As I mentioned elsewhere the ideal lube and protecting products are available only in very large quantities. I have offered to package some up in small quantities if you would like to try them. I'm not marking the items up, just including postage and handling, container cost, etc. If you want to try them, eMail me. I'll put in a complete instruction sheet.
 

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I agree with John Lawson 100 percent, he makes a good point if you can bother to read through all the wishy-washy double talk!
hehehehehehe!
(Ain't nuthin' wrong with speakin' your mind!):D

NOTE!
I'm sure this is what John meant, but in case he didn't make it clear enough, and at the risk of stating the obvious, use the water on parts ONLY, not assembled pieces.
(Strip the slide before you soak it down.)

I've used the boiling water many times myself, and it's great for de-greasing and flushing out the stubborn stuff, but you don't have to go so far as to use actually boiling water.

If you've got a good water heater in your house, (hot enough that you don't want to stick your hand under the hot water) that will do the job just as well, but you have to leave the part under the hot water long enough for the part to reach roughly the same temp as the water.
This does two things.
1. Flushes out all the gunk.
2. Causes the water to evaporate very quickly.

Have Q-tips on hand to reach in and clean all the nooks, crannies, and tunnels, and to re-lube them as well.

As to what sort of lube to use, I'll not get too detailed and just ditto Mr. Lawson. The one thing I do want to add though, is to mention the judicial application of a good gun grease where it's called for.
A tiny dab on the back of the trigger stirrup, and maybe a dab on the (side) bearing surfaces of the hammer.
My general rule of lube, is that if after lubing your pistol, you would not want to wear it tucked in the waistband of your best suit, there's WAY too much oil.
(Kinda the same thing as the white glove test I suppose.)

Remember, best lube is measured in DROP and DAB, anything else is excessive.
 

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Mr Cook:
Most people on the West Coast have been hit (due to the draught) with double or triple electric costs, and the utilities have told consumers to turn down their water heater thermostats. I left mine high for the exact reason you stated, but this is why I mentioned boiling water.
Not too many of the shooters out there would be willing to measure their water temp with a candy thermometer, though this will certainly work. How about we say bring to a light boil (Hey, I'm getting more and more like a Julia Child fan). And, don't knock the old gal. It will be hard to visualize this, but she was in the OSS during WW-II, and she learned to use a knife and 1911. How's that for double speak and complete redundancy?
 

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Your saying the "Hot water" method of cleaning can be used on Blued Guns as well as stainless steel...?
 

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Mr. Lawson,

I, for one, would surely be interested in your identifying the ideal cleaners and lubricants that are only available in large quantities--and why you feel they are superior to "the best" of the more commonly available materials.

I'm always looking for the ideal cleaner, lube, and rust preventative...
 
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