My experience with skateboard tape started back in about 1975, when I got my first skateboard. Many years later, I still have a skateboard, though I ride it much less than I should. Guess I'm waiting to ride it with my daughter in a few years.
The application to 1911's started in about 1995 or so, and with a Colt Enhanced 1911. For the purposes of this discussion, I'll just refer to that gun as jam-o-matic. JOM had a blued finish, and I extended the (actual real live) skateboard tape under the grips so it wouldn't peel off. As JOM has rubber grips, all was well. When I decided I wanted to sell JOM (for a 1911 that worked), I took it to the gun shop to lose my arsh on a trade in. They weren't very impressed with the tape, and I felt obliged to tell them about the specks of rust forming under the grips. Were the spots of rust linked to the tape? Probably not. The blued finish was good looking but not durable, and the rubber grips really must've held moisture against the frame.
On to my latest 1911, a Wilson 1996A2. Finally got it working again (learning my lesson of not screwing with guns the hard way, I guess -- see other thread). At last weeks organized IDPA practice (my first non-mil organized shoot, BTW) I found myself gripping less of the 1911 after than before the Bill Drill. Thought skate tape would be a great compromise between checkering and nothing. Well, the east side skate shop that took all of my law school student loan money in exchange for high end windsurfing equipement closed it's doors. Their west side shop was killing it for business, I assume. I bought some grip tape from Menardss that seemed a bit softer (better, I thought) so it would conform to the front strap and maybe stay there.
I cut a piece to fit just the forward sections (front view, I guess) of the front strap and tacked it on. I did NOT extend it underneath the grips as I did not want to crack my expensive coco-bolo grips (or whatever they are). I was digging the new grippiness during dry fire practice this week. Seemed I was happy at last.
Well, I always had a question as to how often you're suppose to swap this tape out and clean the gun surface to prevent rust. I know you have to thoroughly clean the surface and make sure it's dry and free of oil before you apply the tape, but how often do most people service this stuff?
Then, I noticed a scratch on the front of my brand new (see other thread to dissuade you home gunsmiths out there) parkerized Wilson BulletProof slide stop. It's only been on there a week, so I was trying to figure out what could've happened. The conclusion I came to is that the roofing-like abrasive material on the tape was wearing off and slipping into my Blade-Tech kydex holster. Reholstering was causing the abrasion. Worse yet, I found specs of the abrasive material had found its way inbetween the trigger and the frame. This I found absolutely unacceptable. Even though there were only specs in there, I don't need even 10% more wear than is normal. Nor will I stand for any possible reduction in reliability.
Needless to say, my pistol got a surprise full detailed strip and cleaning. I had to use Hoppes #9 to clean the adhesive off the frame after peeling the tape off. What do you all do in the way of preventative maintenance when you use skateboard tape? Any problems with excessive wear from the abrasive materials rubbing off and getting into your gun, as I've described?
I've pretty much decide that my gun's going back to Wilson's this winter if it doesn't work without a shok-buff. That would be a perfect time to have them cut 30 LPI checkering and reparkerize the gun (unless anyone can convince me there's a black finish out there more durable than park). But, then again, after using the tape and then going back to a clean front strap, I have found that my fingers can follow the fronstrap around the gun for a better grip using the IWB Blade-Tech holster than I love (I'm commited to keeping IDPA practical, hence the IWB). Maybe I won't get it checkered?
Any thoughts on the skateboard tape maintenance issue?
What about better IWB draws without checkering? (Yes, I've read the thread about scallops, etc., and guess I agree that you have to shift your grip a bit during the draw.) Maybe I'll just keep a plain front strap for another year or so....
The application to 1911's started in about 1995 or so, and with a Colt Enhanced 1911. For the purposes of this discussion, I'll just refer to that gun as jam-o-matic. JOM had a blued finish, and I extended the (actual real live) skateboard tape under the grips so it wouldn't peel off. As JOM has rubber grips, all was well. When I decided I wanted to sell JOM (for a 1911 that worked), I took it to the gun shop to lose my arsh on a trade in. They weren't very impressed with the tape, and I felt obliged to tell them about the specks of rust forming under the grips. Were the spots of rust linked to the tape? Probably not. The blued finish was good looking but not durable, and the rubber grips really must've held moisture against the frame.
On to my latest 1911, a Wilson 1996A2. Finally got it working again (learning my lesson of not screwing with guns the hard way, I guess -- see other thread). At last weeks organized IDPA practice (my first non-mil organized shoot, BTW) I found myself gripping less of the 1911 after than before the Bill Drill. Thought skate tape would be a great compromise between checkering and nothing. Well, the east side skate shop that took all of my law school student loan money in exchange for high end windsurfing equipement closed it's doors. Their west side shop was killing it for business, I assume. I bought some grip tape from Menardss that seemed a bit softer (better, I thought) so it would conform to the front strap and maybe stay there.
I cut a piece to fit just the forward sections (front view, I guess) of the front strap and tacked it on. I did NOT extend it underneath the grips as I did not want to crack my expensive coco-bolo grips (or whatever they are). I was digging the new grippiness during dry fire practice this week. Seemed I was happy at last.
Well, I always had a question as to how often you're suppose to swap this tape out and clean the gun surface to prevent rust. I know you have to thoroughly clean the surface and make sure it's dry and free of oil before you apply the tape, but how often do most people service this stuff?
Then, I noticed a scratch on the front of my brand new (see other thread to dissuade you home gunsmiths out there) parkerized Wilson BulletProof slide stop. It's only been on there a week, so I was trying to figure out what could've happened. The conclusion I came to is that the roofing-like abrasive material on the tape was wearing off and slipping into my Blade-Tech kydex holster. Reholstering was causing the abrasion. Worse yet, I found specs of the abrasive material had found its way inbetween the trigger and the frame. This I found absolutely unacceptable. Even though there were only specs in there, I don't need even 10% more wear than is normal. Nor will I stand for any possible reduction in reliability.
Needless to say, my pistol got a surprise full detailed strip and cleaning. I had to use Hoppes #9 to clean the adhesive off the frame after peeling the tape off. What do you all do in the way of preventative maintenance when you use skateboard tape? Any problems with excessive wear from the abrasive materials rubbing off and getting into your gun, as I've described?
I've pretty much decide that my gun's going back to Wilson's this winter if it doesn't work without a shok-buff. That would be a perfect time to have them cut 30 LPI checkering and reparkerize the gun (unless anyone can convince me there's a black finish out there more durable than park). But, then again, after using the tape and then going back to a clean front strap, I have found that my fingers can follow the fronstrap around the gun for a better grip using the IWB Blade-Tech holster than I love (I'm commited to keeping IDPA practical, hence the IWB). Maybe I won't get it checkered?
Any thoughts on the skateboard tape maintenance issue?
What about better IWB draws without checkering? (Yes, I've read the thread about scallops, etc., and guess I agree that you have to shift your grip a bit during the draw.) Maybe I'll just keep a plain front strap for another year or so....
