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My 3 Glocks. A Glock 21 with Trijicon Night Sights, a Glock 21-C (Compensated) with standard sights, and a Glock 30 with Glock Night Sights I picked up this morning. The only one left in .45 ACP I need to get is the single stack 36. Bill T.
 

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cool but..

Why? Do you just love the 45 or what? Are you just collecting these things what do you do with all the 45s? Don't get me wrong I think it's cool I was just wondering, more power to you if you can afford that many.
 

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If you practice shooting that 21-C from a coat pocket, have someone with a hose standing by.

Glock is a fine gun, but I have taken a shine to Smith M&Ps. The factory issue sights are metal and great and no aftermarket barrel needed for my cast lead reloads.

I have Glocks in 9mm and .40 along with a bucket load of new sights, barrels and other accessories. I will keep shooting until I wear them out.(my hope and dream that I should live long enough and have enough spare change to do so.)
 

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If you practice shooting that 21-C from a coat pocket, have someone with a hose standing by.
AN ABSOLUTE MYTH!

Glock is a fine gun, but I have taken a shine to Smith M&Ps. The factory issue sights are metal and great and no aftermarket barrel needed for my cast lead reloads.
Who needs an aftermarket (conventionally rifled) barrel in order to shoot lead bullets in a Glock? I do it all of the time; you just have to know how. Sure, novice reloaders and pistol newbies might not be able to do it; but, after 40 years of shooting lead bullets, I'd take up archery if I didn't know how to load the right lead bullets for a polygonal Glock barrel.

Do you know how to test bullet hardness? Do you own a powder scale? If you do, then, you're, 'home free'! A certain amount of reloading skill is required; but, this is certainly NOT an, 'impossible' thing to do.
 

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Have you actually tried it, SB?
You know, this is old news. Over the years there have been several articles in leading gun magazines debunking this myth; and there have, also, been YouTube videos showing the impossibility of setting anything - except, perhaps, gasoline soaked clothes - on fire while shooting from retention. Glock Talk has done long threads on this subject too. February of 2012 is, kind 'a, late for someone to come out with this nonsense. (Besides, who would attempt to fire a Glock from inside his pocket?)

How often do you clean your Glock after firing how many lead bullets, SB?
Look, there are dozens - if not hundreds - of internet gun forum threads on how to use lead bullets correctly in a Glock pistol. Many of them have been posted on Glock Talk. Gauging the numerous responses, (my own among them) there must be, at least, thousands of gun owner/reloaders who regularly use lead bullets in their Glocks and are fully aware of how to do this safely.

H&K uses mandrel-formed, polygonal barrels. H&K pistols do not come with any warning against using lead bullets. Sako rifles, too. The only caveat I'll offer is that shooting lead bullets in anybody's polygonal barrel is not an entirely safe practice for people inexperienced with reloading-in-general, and lead bullets-in-particular to attempt. A certain amount of technical knowledge is required. Those of us who know how, don't have problems. Like I said: This is old news; I shouldn't have to repeat any of it, here.


PS: I suspect from reading your posts that this is something you could handle. There are six salient points to keep in mind:

(1) You cannot use commercial lead bullets. Commercial lead comes on long soft-wire spools, and is way too soft to make ammunition that's intended to be used in a mandrel-formed barrel.

(2) You have to know, something of, how to test for Brinell hardness - Even if the tool used is only a knife blade.

(3) The BHN needs to be over 12. An ideal range is considered to be between 15 and 19.

(4) Know your bore dimensions. Then match your bullet diameter to be no more than .001 " oversized.

(5) Keep your powder charges on the lower end of the chart.

(6) Below 900 fps, lube the bullets with Alox; above 900 fps, use a gas check.
 

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... PS: I suspect from reading your posts that this is something you could handle. ...
Belated thanks for the compliment.

Of late, there is an article titled "Glock Pistol Trouble Points" in the Nov 2013 edition of American GunSmith. On page 12 the author states, in addition to the usual admonishments, "... There is also the fact that the Glock has a sharp transition from the chamber to the leade or beginning of rifling, which accumulates lead. The lead build up may prevent the pistol from fully closing and the resulting build up will allow the pistol to fire when not locked up. ..."

I always knew that mere polygonal rifling would not result in major lead accumulation by itself. This explanation makes more sense.

I did read some years back that Glocks will fire slightly out of battery and testing my own confirms that. Normally with new jacketed bullet ammo of decent quality this would never be an issue even if somehow the gun did fire not quite in full battery. But firing reloads especially with bullets on the soft side and more importantly with infrequent cleaning and possibly weakened casings makes casehead failure almost guaranteed.

I have wondered what firelapping, maybe leade lapping, would do in regards to Glock barrels leading.
 

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I have a Glock 22 in .40 cal for my carry gun. I have reloaded about 700 rounds through it with no problems. Then I clean my firearms every time after shooting them. Just my 2c.
 

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I have a Glock 22 in .40 cal for my carry gun. I have reloaded about 700 rounds through it with no problems. Then I clean my firearms every time after shooting them. Just my 2c.
You reload using your G22? :eek: Wow! I have to use a press for that! Am quite impressed. :D However do you do it?
 

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Belated thanks for the compliment.

Of late, there is an article titled "Glock Pistol Trouble Points" in the Nov 2013 edition of American GunSmith. On page 12 the author states, in addition to the usual admonishments, "... There is also the fact that the Glock has a sharp transition from the chamber to the leade or beginning of rifling, which accumulates lead. The lead build up may prevent the pistol from fully closing and the resulting build up will allow the pistol to fire when not locked up. ..."

I always knew that mere polygonal rifling would not result in major lead accumulation by itself. This explanation makes more sense.

I did read some years back that Glocks will fire slightly out of battery and testing my own confirms that. Normally with new jacketed bullet ammo of decent quality this would never be an issue even if somehow the gun did fire not quite in full battery. But firing reloads especially with bullets on the soft side and more importantly with infrequent cleaning and possibly weakened casings makes casehead failure almost guaranteed.

I have wondered what firelapping, maybe leade lapping, would do in regards to Glock barrels leading.
Better a late answer than no answer - Right! :p

Glock chambers DO have a sharp shoulder immediately in front of the leade area; BUT, it ain't sharp enough to cause excessive lead buildup PROVIDED THAT the lead bullets being shot are sufficiently hard: i.e., between 15 and 24 BHN. (With light loads you can go down all the way to 12 BHN, but not below.)

Glock pistols DO have a tendency to fire out-of-battery; BUT, this is most often caused by trigger bar problems rather than any sort of lead buildup. Anyone who is using lead bullets that test between 18 and 24 BHN is definitely NOT using too soft a bullet. In fact I've heard complaints that 24 BHN is too hard for some of Glock's excessively oversized bores. (Most often found in 1st and 2nd generation Glock pistols.)

My guns are always cleaned on the same day that I use them; and, it's safe to say that they're always VERY CLEAN, too! I am an EXPERT RELOADER with more than 40 years of experience. Consequently I'm able to shoot 10's of 1,000's of reloads through my Glock pistols with complete confidence. Shooting lead, plated, or jacketed bullets doesn't matter; and I used to do this all the time! (Lately I've just been going to Wal-Mart and practicing with their crap ammo.)

Maybe I've been doing this for so long that I don't have to accept as, 'gospel' what's written in the gunzines. Truth be told I could write both technical and tactical articles for the gun magazines were I so inclined.

In 40 + years of reloading I've never had an incipient casehead failure get into one of my guns. 'Why'? Because I looked for them! If I had a question about a case, I'd use a steel pick I made from a wire coathanger in order to scratch test the inside case wall. I, also, used to shake repeatedly fired cases in my hand before I'd put them in the press. (You should hear, 'ding, ding, ding'. If you hear a, 'thunk' instead, then, you've got a split case in your hand.)

I did one other thing that most reloaders won't do: After the 12th reload I'd toss the brass - No if's, no and's, no but's. (Understandable when you usually reload to mid-chart specifications, or above.) If you pay a little more attention to your bore while shooting lead bullets, you should be fine. Remember, it's only Glock, GmbH/Inc. that recommends against the use of lead bullets in their cold-forged, mandrel-formed, polygonal barrels. No other gun manufacturer, including H&K, does that.

(Which brings up the interesting question, 'Is Glock right to do this?' Personally, given the broad lack of firearms and ammunition related experience among the (Glock-buying) general public, I'd say that they are! However, that doesn't mean that knowledgeable pistoleros like you, and me should go along with the large majority of inexperienced people who usually buy Glocks. These people don't know what safety factors and performance characteristics to watch out for, or what the right components are to use; but, we do.)
 
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