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I'm trying to practice posting pics, so here's a picture of my Kimber project, for conversational stimulation.
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My Kimber project
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Looking good so far Hilton. Where are you at on your project and what else do you have left to do on your punch list? Is that your checkering on the MSH?
DD
DD
Speaking of Kimber's - can someone please confirm the barrel length on their "commander" length pieces ?
If it is 4 1/4", we can get 'em into Canada no problem. If they are actually 4", we got issues. Our government has deemed that anything under 4 1/4" is inherently EVIL
.
If it is 4 1/4", we can get 'em into Canada no problem. If they are actually 4", we got issues. Our government has deemed that anything under 4 1/4" is inherently EVIL
.
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669 Posts
Sorry Shane, Kimber puts an evil four inch barrel on the Pro Carry (etc). Confirmed it with their web site.
DD
DD
You're SOL Shane. The only Commander lengths that will me your needs will have to come from Colt or Les Baer. Rock River says the barrels on their Elite Commandos are 4", according to the web site, but I've heard that they are actually 4.25". Maybe one of the RR owners can confirm this.
It's damn near impossible to get it over the border with a 4" barrel (even as LEO). I would need to find a dealer in the states who is willing to sell me a Kimber Pro Carry (or SA Champion :wink: ), then change out the slide and barrel at his end (U.S. side) to a 4 1/4" slide/barrel that I have purchased, then fill out tons of paperwork stating that "yes it is a Kimber/Springfield, but is no longer spec'd as built by the factory. The gun's serial number would then have to be changed (physically on the gun) to reflect this modification. Then I MAY be able to get it over the border. Remember, by this time I have already purchased the shorter 4" barrel and slide - which is no good to me. The dealer MAY give me credit for these pieces when he swaps in the longer 4 1/4" slide and barrel - maybe not. Then it wouldn't even be a Kimber/Springfield anyway!
The answer is for Kimber and Springfield to realize that Canadians would like to buy the "commander" length guns, why can't they add a measly 1/4" ?????????????
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Shane Kropf on 2001-04-11 16:59 ]</font>
The answer is for Kimber and Springfield to realize that Canadians would like to buy the "commander" length guns, why can't they add a measly 1/4" ?????????????
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Shane Kropf on 2001-04-11 16:59 ]</font>
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Wouldn't be easier to just go done to customs with a shrunken ruler. "See, it measures longer than 4.25 inches".
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239 Posts
This thread has wandered way off topic. Pls start a new one re: the 4" Kimbers.
DD: I'm a picture embedding fool now! Here's the MSH, which I checkered by hand:
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Other items left to do include: finish mag well bevel, redo trigger job, replace MIM FP stop. I want to either Black T or Armor Tuff the gun.
Things that have been done include:
-replace trigger, sear, hammer, beavertail, sights, MSH, bushing, extractor, safety, grips, guide rod, slide stop
-polish all internals
-refit bbl to correct factory fitting
-lap slide/frame
-thorough dehorn/melt
-polish breech face
I suppose for all the effort, I could've started with a more basic gun, but one little project always led to "just one more thing and it'll be perfect." It's been fun, and the gun runs 100% with all kinds of ammo.
DD: I'm a picture embedding fool now! Here's the MSH, which I checkered by hand:
Other items left to do include: finish mag well bevel, redo trigger job, replace MIM FP stop. I want to either Black T or Armor Tuff the gun.
Things that have been done include:
-replace trigger, sear, hammer, beavertail, sights, MSH, bushing, extractor, safety, grips, guide rod, slide stop
-polish all internals
-refit bbl to correct factory fitting
-lap slide/frame
-thorough dehorn/melt
-polish breech face
I suppose for all the effort, I could've started with a more basic gun, but one little project always led to "just one more thing and it'll be perfect." It's been fun, and the gun runs 100% with all kinds of ammo.
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Gents, please heed Hilton's advice -- when only 3 out 10 posts are on-topic, then we need to pay attention (me included). gyp_c2, double shame on you for not paying attention, even after getting your pp whacked. :wink:
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Hilton,
Glad to see you have gotten the hang of the pic posting deal. Your pics will add a lot to this type of discussion. I think a MSH is great place for anyone to make their first attempt at checkering, (of course) after doing a sufficient amount of practicing on scap stuff.
Since you are up to speed with the pics, maybe we could prevail upon you to detail strip the pistol some, so that we can get a better idea of the internal work you have done on the pistol? You camera does nice macro work BTW.
Would you also maybe tell us about which of the work your found the harderst and that which you felt was pretty easy, even for fairly beginning gunplummers? Anything you would do different next time around? Any tools you might suggest as being indispensable to doing the work?
DD
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Hilton,
Glad to see you have gotten the hang of the pic posting deal. Your pics will add a lot to this type of discussion. I think a MSH is great place for anyone to make their first attempt at checkering, (of course) after doing a sufficient amount of practicing on scap stuff.
Since you are up to speed with the pics, maybe we could prevail upon you to detail strip the pistol some, so that we can get a better idea of the internal work you have done on the pistol? You camera does nice macro work BTW.
Would you also maybe tell us about which of the work your found the harderst and that which you felt was pretty easy, even for fairly beginning gunplummers? Anything you would do different next time around? Any tools you might suggest as being indispensable to doing the work?
DD
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My apologies for wandering off topic. You have not mentioned anything about treatment of the front strap. Has checkering, stippling, or Heinie's scalloping been considered?
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Hi, Hilton: Just wondering how you like the CMC trigger? I've recently put them on a couple of mine, and so far like them a lot. Very light, yet feel solid. Don't know about long-term durability though.
DD: Ya mean you let 'em wander off topic then just had a civil conversation with 'em instead of just banning 'em??? Waazzupp widdatt? Well just never mind then! :wink:
DD: Ya mean you let 'em wander off topic then just had a civil conversation with 'em instead of just banning 'em??? Waazzupp widdatt? Well just never mind then! :wink:
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Nice gun Hilton..ps all you other bone heads are banned for 3 seconds :grin: Go to your room!
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Ok, everybody can come out of their rooms now. See, that was easy. :smile:
DD:
I am indeed now the pic posting fool! I'll do some internal pics of the gun this weekend and post. Here is a pic of some 1" steel barstock (from Brownell's) that I used for checkering practice:
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I think the 1911 front strap is closer to a 7/8" diameter rod (anyone?), so I may try that. Dlask Arms is also selling rough frame forgings, and I bought three for $25 each to use for more practice. I refuse to have a crappy looking front strap b/c I was impatient. I ditched the first MSH that I did, was not pleased with it. The current one can stay for a while.
The beavertail was the hardest, and I'm not 100% pleased with the gap. The beavertail was grossly oversized in the trigger block extension (everyone calls that arm thingie something different) and the two tabs that interface with the MSH. Had I known to cut those down for fit FIRST, I wouldn't have gotten as nuts on the frame tangs. Barrel fitting remains a bugger, and I've avoided much by staying with "drop in" tolerances. Attention to detail as far as polishing and contouring all the little parts was important, and in studying posts over at the 1911forum, I've found that many people seem to want to gloss over the little stuff. In studying other's work, it's absolutely the little stuff that separates the men from the boys. Without attention to detail, it'd just be a pile of new parts that left their little baggies behind to hold hands.
Fitting and tensioning the extractor was easier with the use of the Weigand fixture and tension gauges. All beginner brain surgeons and gun hacks should have them. With the gauges, you can develop the "feel" for a properly tensioned extractor. It's not as hit or miss.
Front strap: it's smooth for now. I hate stippling, don't want to outsource for scallops (my sweat is cheap, scallops cost money!), and don't feel ready to cut the 20 lpi checkering that I love. I'll leave it smooth for now.
CMC trigger: I love its aesthetics, it's more zoomy than the traditional 3 hole triggers. Can't speak to durability, the gun only has about 1000 rds thru it. Price was right. I'll probably get a few more to put away, since my then-favorite Vic Int'l flat trigger got discontinued years ago.
My gun work allows me to totally relax and unwind, and has taught me much appreciation for the talents and gifts of the REAL gunsmiths among us. Also, since I carry a 1911 for a living, I feel responsible for knowing how the heck it works!
DD:
I am indeed now the pic posting fool! I'll do some internal pics of the gun this weekend and post. Here is a pic of some 1" steel barstock (from Brownell's) that I used for checkering practice:
I think the 1911 front strap is closer to a 7/8" diameter rod (anyone?), so I may try that. Dlask Arms is also selling rough frame forgings, and I bought three for $25 each to use for more practice. I refuse to have a crappy looking front strap b/c I was impatient. I ditched the first MSH that I did, was not pleased with it. The current one can stay for a while.
The beavertail was the hardest, and I'm not 100% pleased with the gap. The beavertail was grossly oversized in the trigger block extension (everyone calls that arm thingie something different) and the two tabs that interface with the MSH. Had I known to cut those down for fit FIRST, I wouldn't have gotten as nuts on the frame tangs. Barrel fitting remains a bugger, and I've avoided much by staying with "drop in" tolerances. Attention to detail as far as polishing and contouring all the little parts was important, and in studying posts over at the 1911forum, I've found that many people seem to want to gloss over the little stuff. In studying other's work, it's absolutely the little stuff that separates the men from the boys. Without attention to detail, it'd just be a pile of new parts that left their little baggies behind to hold hands.
Fitting and tensioning the extractor was easier with the use of the Weigand fixture and tension gauges. All beginner brain surgeons and gun hacks should have them. With the gauges, you can develop the "feel" for a properly tensioned extractor. It's not as hit or miss.
Front strap: it's smooth for now. I hate stippling, don't want to outsource for scallops (my sweat is cheap, scallops cost money!), and don't feel ready to cut the 20 lpi checkering that I love. I'll leave it smooth for now.
CMC trigger: I love its aesthetics, it's more zoomy than the traditional 3 hole triggers. Can't speak to durability, the gun only has about 1000 rds thru it. Price was right. I'll probably get a few more to put away, since my then-favorite Vic Int'l flat trigger got discontinued years ago.
My gun work allows me to totally relax and unwind, and has taught me much appreciation for the talents and gifts of the REAL gunsmiths among us. Also, since I carry a 1911 for a living, I feel responsible for knowing how the heck it works!
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3,552 Posts
Just a cautionary note..remember the front straps are always harder than the barstock.
A little tougher...well OK, a lot tougher to checker :sad:
A little tougher...well OK, a lot tougher to checker :sad:
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