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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First, please don't yell too loudly; and if I must, I will go to 1911 purgatory and send my Kimber to a competent gunsmith for remission of my sins :smile:

Anyhow, I just got this Eclipse on Thursday, disassembled and cleaned it and took it to the range yesterday. My best grouping at 15 yds was a set of 13 rounds, 1/2" off center and within a 2" circle. I was very happy ( considering my shooting expertise is only 6 months old ), but I noted that some shots seemed to be less than optimal in that the trigger would slightly 'grind and break' rather than a clean snap.

SO, when I got home, I did another full breakdown and inspected the wonderful quality of the MIM 'precision' parts. The sear-trigger surfaces were well machined ( and I did not TouchThem ! ), but the rest of the cast surfaces were unmachined and the lower sear fork which mates with the disconnector had a bit of excess material sticking out. The bottom sear fork 'seemed' to have a slight radius (?) Anyhow, I removed the mold spur with some 600 paper, smoothed the rest of that fork a bit and polished with jeweler's rouge and cloth. The surface is still a bit pitted from molding imperfections, but I tried to not remove too much material.

I polished the trigger sides and yoke with rouge to a high shine - reassembled all and tried the mechanism without springs. I could still feel a bit of roughness. Apart again. I then polished the sides of the sear and inner area of the disconnector with rouge on a cloth - moving the parts quickly over the polishing cloth. I also polished the disconnector flat which interfaces to the trigger yoke and the round bearing surface of the upper portion of the disconnector. ALL the cleanup was done on un machined areas.

Back together finally with some nice moly lube. Results : my unskilled opinion, pretty smooth !

How much trigger overtravel is nominal - I think I have about 0.015" or so. I know that too little causes the hammer to catch the sear on the halfcock spur, but is there a 'too much' point also ??

All safety functions work, disconnector tests okay, halfcock does not fall.

Please Have Patience - I would have not attempted this with a 'smith-tuned machine, but the stock Kimber seemed like it needed some immediate assistance !!!

Thanks !
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Eclipse Epilog :

I cautiously shot a few 3 round sets, then 5, then full. No problems. The performance is not perfect, but a great deal smoother than it was out of the box

Regards !
 

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When polishing the disconnector, be very careful not to change the length of the unit or alter the angles on the head. Of all the trigger group components, the disconnector affects trigger pull the least. Not to say that it's not important, but a lousy trigger fit or improper sear/hammer engagement is a much bigger part of the picture.

As far as trigger overtravel, I usually like to leave a little in there so that I don't steer the gun with the trigger. With a little overtravel, the shot will break before the trigger stops and moves the gun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hello Hilton,

Thanks for the reply. I only polished the disconnector's trigger.yoke pad, its mid section sides which move within the sear,and the ball which resides in the upper frame hole.

I think I will put a few hundred more rounds through it before any further full teardowns.

I can still feel a small motion before break : I plan to try a simulation with teflon tape on the sear spring prongs before any buffing of those surfaces to see if there is an effect.

If the gun came the way it presently functions, I'd never have given a thought to any tweaks..

Thanks again :smile:
 

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I have a Pro CDP that had noticeable trigger creep (that motion you feel before the break) right out of the box. I took it apart and did a little polishing of the trigger parts but the creep was still there. I put 500 rounds through it, plus several hundred dry fires, and the creep remained, although it was less than when I first bought it. Finally, I bought Brownell's trigger stone and file set and sear/hammer jig and re-cut/polished the sear/hammer engagement surfaces. After re-assembly there was *still* a tiny bit of creep but 20 or 30 dry-fires later it was crisp and breaking at 4lb consistently. I think Kimber has a bit of quality control problems with the MIM parts, although I've checked out two other Pro CDPs and both of them had great triggers right out of the box.
 
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