[Ronin]

Was kinda worried about this as I don't fancy buying a gun without at least handling it. Well I was pleasantly surprised. KY advertised the gun as *mint* and darned if it wasn't. The finish was beautiful and I couldn't find a scratch on it. Original factory box with manual,gas cylinder cleaning tool,brush and a warranty card. Couldn't be happier! Have to wait until next weekend to shoot it but I'm sure it will perform up to the standards of my PSP. Wonder what I should get next?
Ronin

 

[StormMaster]

... M13 magazines, before they go up to $300 each!! :smile:

I carried an M13 for more than 10 years, and never experienced any FTFs, other malfunctions, or problems of any sort -- not a bad record, by any standard! You chose well.

I've often wondered about KY Imports, having never done business with them previously. Thanks for the report, and enjoy the new sidearm.

Chuck

 

[Guest]

I have purchased both an M8 and M13 from them as well as alot of Glock 10mm mags.
All has gone well and they seem to be ok although thier prices are typically higher than others but they do deliver as stated.
Go with an M10, I am currently looking for a factory nickel finish model.

 

[Ronin]

Thanks for the replies. I aways get excited when I purchase a new gun but this one seems really special for some reason. Well,we'll see.
Saw a couple of nickle M10's on gunsamerica although they appeared a bit pricy. In fact all the P7 prices on GA seem to be rather high.
Ronin

 

[Guest]

Ronin,
And anyone else reading this please be forewarned that HK made very few pistols in factory nickel finish and several runs were in fact commisioned by a large american distributor in the late 1980's through 1991.
This finish is relatively poor and you are not purchasing a quality HK piece, if you are examing the pistols, remove the grip panels and view the area around the grip screw post, if it is not nickel with a slight "goldish" tint thank the seller and move on as you will have purchased a "peeler".
You may still want the pistol but it is worth
$400.00 less than the true factory nickel gun and in most cases is even a police dept trade in that has been refinished or it is one of the wholesale guns I mentioned above.
Also, HK only imported between 600- 800 (depending on whom you speak to in Germany) of the original P7M10 nickel finish pistols.

 

[Anthony Semone]

Nickel finish is too bright and reflective anyway. I'd bag it in favor of Robar's NP3. JMHO, tony

 

[Ronin]

David,
I might pick up an M10 just because they're rare but I've heard they're poorly balanced,heavy and kinda awkward to shoot. Could you give me some feedback? While this might not be the place to mention it,I'm thinking about a Sig P210. I keep telling people the P7's are second only to the Sig as far as accuracy goes and it's slowly dawning on me (Duh!) that maybe I should buy one. Well we'll see.
Ronin

 

[Guest]

Ronin,
I have both pistols the P7 and the P210. I have owned a few dozen examples over the years. I believe the legend of P210 accuracy is due to the pistols ability to shoot accurately over long ranges, it is in fact very easy to get groups with a P210 at 100 yards.
In comparison, the P7's short sight radius, shorter barrel, and lower velocity due to the gas bleed system reduces it's effective accuracy range to 75- 100 yards. At 25 yards from a bench rest you will not be able to tell the differnce in group sizes between the two with match grade ammo.
Yes, the P7M10 is an awkward pistol and it does take some time (weeks) to become accustomed to it's feel and it does require a very specific holster for effective comfortable, concealed carry. It is also a large pistol for those with smaller hands, it is over-engineered for such a small round when left in the stock chambering of 40S&W.
It is however very easy to shoot with full power rounds and in 10mm it is a really nice 10mm German handgun, if you want a very accurate, easy to shoot .40S&W or 10mm German pistol than the P7M10 is a pistol without equal, it will last decades longer than the P229 and it is not made of plastic.
If you are comparing it to the 1911 then you miss the point of the maker and the purpose of the design.

FYI: both pistols are great investments.


<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: David DiFabio on 2001-04-17 18:01 ]</font>

 

[Ronin]

Hmmm,this makes the M10 sound more attractive. How difficult would it be to make the conversion to 10mm? Is there a particular gunsmith who specializes in this?
Ronin

 

[Desert Dog]

Yes David, your post on the 10mm has made me a little curious as well. Could you please share a little more of the details on the conversion for us? Exactly what all is involved and what sources for either parts or gunsmithing would you recommend? TIA.

DD

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Desert Dog on 2001-04-19 03:21 ]</font>

 

[StormMaster]

Gentlemen,

I asked much the same question a few days ago. While a more in-depth answer may well be in order here, you'll find David's overview of the conversion process here ...

http://www.pistolsmith.com/viewtopic.ph ... forum=15&5

Chuck

 

[Desert Dog]

Thanks for the redirect Chuck, but I did read that thread when it was first posted and still have an interest in more info, as that thread has piqued my curiosity as well. What specifc recoil and striker springs should I be asking Walt Wolff for? Were they custom wound for this project? Some details on what the chamber dimension should be opened up to, in order to make the conversion work reliably? Who has the correct reamer (if such a beast exists)? If David was satisfied with the smith who performed the work on his pistol (and he doesn't mind sharing his source), I would like to consider using the very same smith, should I decide to undertake this project. As you noted Chuck, we are dealing with an expensive "base gun", so any other pertinent info would be much appreciated. :smile:

DD

 

[StormMaster]

DD,

I'm right there with you -- just thought it might be useful to offer the lead for those who may have missed the earlier reference to this conversion. I already know that you're the kind of guy that would do his research before asking for more information. :smile:

I too am interested in hearing a few more details; this, despite the fact that I traded out my M10 several years back. I'm secretly hoping that the procedure is way too complicated, unreliable and costly to give it much more thought ... but I think I know better. Nuts!! :smile:

Chuck

 

[Guest]

Guys,
Please don't shoot the messenger if you mess up a $490.00 barrel (factory replacement and repair cost) on your M10.
I am not a gun smith but I do have access to tools and I am very careful.
I opened the chamber myself with a Clymer 10mm reamer set, Foster and Clymer 10mm headspace guage and patientce.
You will need a custom Wolff 28lb recoil spring and a pack of his standard P7 extra power striker springs.
I opened the gas port very slowly through trial and error.
I noted someone else complaining about P7 heat buildup and the M10 in 10mm gets pretty hot when target shooting.

 

[Ronin]

Well,if we mess up the barrel we won't be able to shot the messenger anyway.<grin> While 1911's are my heart, I always love to walk the "path less traveled". That's why I'm a shooter in NYC. Think I'll discuss this with my gunsmith. I am only an egg.
Ronin

 

[Desert Dog]

Thanks for the great info David. I would never consider shooting the messenger (in this case :grin: Any ideas on an H&K friendly smith up to such a task?

DD

 

[Guest]

DD,
I have moved this conversion into it's own thread under P7 conversions.