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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hopefully I posted this in the right area but I am having issues with a family heirloom revolver I am trying to repair. The wizards here always seem to have the right answers!

I have virtually no revolver experience (not normally my thing) and have been tinkering with it, plus looking online for weeks to find info on what needs to be fixed. The gun is a DA Rossi Model 68 which is an apparent clone of the S&W model 36. While it has little material value to justify sending to a gunsmith, I want to restore functionality and appearance for sentimental reasons.

A little background...the original fake plastic grips were completely melted in a house fire and the exterior recieved surface rust and minor pitting from water. The plastic melted its way inside the frame and locked it up. I took it apart, cleaned off the plastic goo, and inspected each part. No damage to the innards are apparent. All of the springs seem to have been undamaged and maintained their strength. However, after reassembly, there are functionality issues. The hammer will not lock backwards in SA or DA. The cylinder does not seem to be advancing either. I would love to find animations and things that show how this gun and its S&W clone is supposed to function.

Please someone help me!!!!!!!!
 

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Are you certain the gun was working properly before? I like Rossis, but they are more prone to QC issues and wear since the small parts aren't up to S&W standards.

If it was, you've either missed some rust/plastic or reassembled incorrectly. The Kuhnhausen book on S&W revolvers would probably help you.
 

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Here's a schematic of the Rossi revolvers.

http://www.stevespages.com/ipb-rossi-revolvers.html

When a gun is in a fire, it's not uncommon for smoke and debris to get into the action and for internal parts to rust, and for small springs to fail while larger one's are still good.

As above, invest in the Jerry Kuhnhausen Shop Manual on the S&W revolvers.
The Rossi is very much (but NOT exactly) like the S&W "J" frame revolvers.
The shop manual shows FULL disassembly the RIGHT way and how to do factory level repairs.

While you're at Brownell's, buy a small set of the Brownell's Magna-Tip Gunsmith screwdriver bits.
These will prevent damaging the screw heads.
Since it was in a fire, FIRST apply a good drop of Kroil to each screw head and let soak 24 hours.
Brownell's also sell Kroil.

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...the-s-w-revolver-a-shop-manual-prod25717.aspx

I'm not sure about the Rossi, but if you buy a -2 or -3 thickness in the .120 and .150 sizes they should fit.
They're cheap and a hell of a lot cheaper then new screws, so buy several sizes and thicknesses.

Last, if you need parts Gun Parts Corp sell many Rossi parts. Most of their revolvers used the same internal parts no matter what the model number so don't get concerned that they don't show specific parts for the model 66.

http://www.gunpartscorp.com/Manufacturers/Rossi-33467.htm


http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...-bits/magna-tip-super-set-bits-prod41568.aspx

A couple of drops of Kroil can save you a lot of grief.

http://www.brownells.com/gun-cleani...lubricant-protectant-oils/kroil-prod7610.aspx

Use the above supplys and the manual to disassemble the gun and whatever is wrong should be reasonably easy to diagnose.
STUDY the manual, don't just give it a quick read.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thankie!
I would prefer a digital copy of Jerry Kuhnhausen's book if someone knows of a source. All I can find are hard copies...just a preference though.

Luckily, the pistol disassembed easy enough after I got it. There was no rust and little debris inside other than what looked like melted plastic. I was thinking it was the plastic grips that melted, but I am thinking now that it was a plastic bottle that was stored nearly that melted down into the hammer slot.

I will take pics of what is going on inside that has me stumped and post them. What is wrong may jump out at someone while I find a copy of Jerry Kuhnhausen's book. Obviously, I dont want to dump too much money on a gun that can be replaced for $150 or so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Dfariswheel...looking at the schematic you posted, I see two pins on the base of the hand. Mine only has one and looks like it had two at some point. After looking closer at other internet pics a bit more closely, apparently having two is normal and will be one part that is replaced. That is likely why the cylinder is not advancing, although I think something is missing since the hand does not touch the cylinder thru the frame. Plus, the hammer and trigger interface still seems to be a problem. I am going to try to find how to upload some pics here to illustrate what I am trying to explain.
Hopefully I can find a copy of that book soon!
 

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Sounds like the missing pin which positions and properly tensions the spring that powers the hand is part of the problem.
You can use a piece of drill rod or even the shank of a drill of the proper size as a replacement.

Unless it's an illegal bootleg, the Kuhnhausen shop manuals are not available in digital form, only in paperback.
 
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