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Discussion Starter #1
If a shockbuff can really help preserve the life of my gun than I'm interested in using them. I've heard people say that they have 30,000 rnds through thier gun with no shockbuff and they have no damage to thier gun.
It seems like the best use of one would be if you're running a lighter recoil spring, is this the case? I'm running the stock spring that came with my gold combat and I don't think I would go with anything heavier, it's pretty stiff as it is, maybe if I was shooting hot loads.

If anyone can voice thier opinion either for or against. I'd love to hear the negatives equally with the positives
 

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Howdy Jim... if you use the 'search' function and look, there's a TON of threads on shock buffs. I think most everyone on the board has chimed in on one or another of the threads...

...'cept me, I haven't tried 'em yet. :grin:
 

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They are good if you use hot loads. other than that moste 1911s will handle ordinary amunition just fine without them but for only $6 every 3000 rounds or so, why not. It's one of those "just in case" kind of things. I use them in my 1911 and Glocks just for extra insurence, you know.

Good shooting,
Russ
 

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I use them in the Kimbers that I compete with and I’ve never had a problem. With that said, I don’t use them in my carry weapon. Murphy’s Law you know!
 

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One negative I experience in my Kimber is when I have a Shok-Buff installed, I can't drop the slide on a fresh mag by pulling and releasing the slide. I MUST use the slide release.

Russ
 

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On 2002-03-01 12:20, RdB wrote:
One negative I experience in my Kimber is when I have a Shok-Buff installed, I can't drop the slide on a fresh mag by pulling and releasing the slide. I MUST use the slide release.

Russ
Yep, all full size Kimbers are like that. Another reason not to use one in a carry gun.
 

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"One negative I experience in my Kimber is when I have a Shok-Buff installed, I can't drop the slide on a fresh mag by pulling and releasing the slide. I MUST use the slide release.

Russ"


They do call it a "slide release" for a reason. :wink: I have a shock buff on my Pro Carry, never had a problem. It takes the edge off the recoil and hopefully protects the aluminum frame. I've got prolly 1k rounds on this one and have not had any problems w/ the exception of some wolf ammo that I tried.
 

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Beware of using a shock buff in the Kimber Pro Carry/Compact models with the 4 inch barrels. I tried a Wilson shock buff in my compact and the last coil of the recoil spring (towards the rear of the pistol) deformed outward, and put a ding in the rear of the recoil spring plug when it got pinched between the plug and the guide rod head during recoil. The ding was significant enough to make the end of the plug slightly out of round.

Granted, this was with a Wolff spring (it says on the package NOT to use a shock buff)but it still cost me a recoil spring plug. This occurred after only a few hundred rounds.

FWIW, I was just trying out the buffer because I had used them in longer guns, and previously owned an even smaller Officer's ACP that functioned fine with them.

After replacing the spring and plug I noticed no problems using full power ammo without the buff. Not sure why I bothered in the first place.

-Tim
 

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I used Wilson Shock buffs regularly for years. One time, my Commander started malfunctioning for no reason after being perfect for two years. It drove me crazy after I stripped the gun and could not find anything wrong. Local gunsmith even re-polished the ramp to a mirror shine and it still FTF'd every time. Eventually, we found that the shock buff (which was fairly new) had a developed a hairline crack in it. Since it did not look worn, we didn't suspect that it was the problem. After removing the buff, the pistol functioned perfectly.
From then on, I use the shock buffs for practice, but remove them for carry.
ML
 

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Well, I shot an IPSC match with my trusty KZ45 about three weeks ago and had a couple FTFs. Took the gun apart and found the culprit: the Shok-Buff had cookie-cuttered, leaving a strip of plastic doing JMB-knows-what in the slide. I took it out and am running just the plastic short r/s guide rod now. It acts just like a shok-buff, and has no visible wear.

I bought a bunch more of these, even if nobody else likes 'em. Makes more sense than the shok-buff unless you're running a f/l guide rod.
 

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Do not put a shock buff in any gun that you depend on to save your life, because they can and do cause pistols to malfunction. We will not allow our Police Officers who carry 1911s to use shock buffs in their guns due to our having had problems with them in the past.

7th
 

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I have used a shock buff of one brand or another for 20 years and 10s of thousands of rounds in my self defense, duty and recreational guns.

I put them in every gun I build and ship.

Like anything they take some common sense to use because they do indeed wear out.

I curently recommned and use the CP buffs. I have yet to see a problem with a quality buff, but I have seen problems with guns that limit their use and the owner who fails to maintain them.

BTW did you know pistolsmith A.D. Swenson "invented" the shock buff?

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Dane Burns on 2002-03-17 19:37 ]</font>
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Dane, thanks for that info and no, I didn't know that.
 

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It's simple,No shock buffs, if you use hot loads, use a heavier spring. Why invent a problem that doesn't exist, by using buffs?
 

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I finally took the time to see why it is that Kimbers have that "no-slingshotting" prob with buffs installed. On the few I've checked, the slide stop notch is in the same place as on a Colt, but the slide's spring tunnel extends further rearward by just enough to cause this problem. One I'll be working on soon, with the gun in battery, the slide's tunnel is telescoped into the frame about .070; it'd take about that much more travel, a little less actually, to allow it to slingshot with a buff in place. I'm just gonna mill it off the slide. Haven't checked yet, I might have to get in there with a key cutter and extend the slide ways a tad to prevent them from bottoming out on the frame rails-- but I doubt it. So I'm going to be a little brash here and say that this appears to be an easy enough fix, for those who want to be able to slingshot a Kimber with a buff in it. I'm not big on the method myself but I believe a gun should be capable of it. I recently saw a custom gun that would not do it even without a buff in it. I don't remember whose slide and frame were used, but something was not quite as it should be.

So much has been said and written about Kimbers and this problem, I'm surprised they haven't done something about it.
 

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I don't use shok buffs due to their tendancy to jam your gun at exactly the wrong moment.

I use a Sprinco guide rod, tungsten, and it works well...if I carried the gun for defense...no Sprinco, no buff, either.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
jimmyd, I've posted threads questioning how well the sprinco FLGR works, what do you think? Does it do what they say? My dad and I saw them at a show, my dad thought it was pretty cool. $60.00 was a little more than we wanted to spend on something that we had never heard of before. Now we're kicking ourselves. Worth the $$ or not, what's you're vote? I would not use it for carry but I'm in Ca. so carrying doesn't happen unless I'm out camping or going into a really bad part of town and willing to risk it.
 

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The new Sprinco rods, in my experience, work very well. I am not a small person and recoil is not really a problem for me, but the Sprinco keeps my muzzle pretty flat...as flat as many Open guns. Double taps on targets that don't shoot back are considerably easier, that is, the shots are closer together on the paper. The new rods, unlike the earlier models, stay together, too. My Sprinco is tungsten, by the way. I use a 15 lb. recoil spring and the gun seems to kick a little harder, but straight back and not up. Pretty pricey, but worth it in my opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I'm not sure what you're shooting or, more importantly, what the stock recoil spring is normally. Mine would normally be 16lb. Does that mean that you stepped up or down? I'm thinking that you went down when you went to the tungsten sprinco. Can you explain what the benefits of the "tungsten" are over sprinco's stock set-up.---Thanks alot, you're the first objective person I've talked(communicated)with that has this set-up.


<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: rocknrollrjm on 2002-03-23 01:22 ]</font>
 

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I am shooting a Heinie-tuned 5" Kimber with scallops front and back and Steve Morrison's smooth stocks. The combination works well for me. I have had a bunch of custom government models and this Heinie Kimber is my favorite of all. He is building a Pro Carry HD .45 for me, too. (Yes, I had to wait my 7-8 years....)

I use a 15 lb. spring instead of my normal 18 lb. spring. Sprinco suggests using 1-2 lbs. less recoil spring. A 16 lb. spring is standard weight.

I shoot a 230 gr. Star RN FMJ, Winchester primers, 6.4 gr. of Vit 340, 1.255" OAL with .003 crimp for a 170 power factor.

I use a tungsten guide rod for the extra weight, about 1.5 ounces. The standard rod is stainless steel. If you don't mind a heavier gun, buy the tungsten. The stainless steel one works just about as well.

When I used to shoot Limited, I had an SV .40, long dust cover, etc., and I used the stainless model in it and I had great results.

I have tried about every combination of gadgets and I find the Sprinco to be a gadget that actually works.
 
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