Hello everyone. I hear alot of bad things about 1911's in 40, single stack. Any experiences? I would like to build a pin gun and take advantage of all of that available once fired brass. I was thinking of a Springfield.
Mostly every person I've had contact with has had problems with their 40 1911. Thery seem to fix their problem by loading the 40 long and using a 10mm mag. So' I have to ask, Why not just shoot a 10mm? I know the brass is more readily available for the 40, but cost for everything else is the same.
If you are going to shoot pins, I would strongly suggest that you build it in 10mm. That cartridge is very suited to the powerfactor needed for pins (195 and up). I have a single stack ramped bbl compgun in 10mm that runs like a champ after I put an AFTEC extractor in it. I also know a bunch of guys that run a single stack .40, when it has the correct spring weight and proper extractor tension they run all day long. I would go with the 10mm for pins, and the .40 for all other games. I have a ton of .40 brass also. Regards, DougC
My Caspian 40 Single Stack runs great. I am using Shooting Star 10mm mags and loading my ammo to 1.169. Some of the top dogs are loading to 1.220 and having success. At that point you have made you 40 a 10mm. But if it works, whats the difference?
The single-stack 40's run better if you load long. That puts them close to the 10mm in OAL.
The difference being: (1) primer size; (2) the 10mm's stronger brass; (3) the actual amount of brass to bullet contact. More brass on the bullet leads to better accuracy and more consistant velocities, right?
Is a 10mm gun the same weight as a 40? Is the 10mm easier to get the timing (spring function) functioning well?
DougC and the other experienced 40 S&W shooter,
What is the right recoil spring weight for a 40. I have a Trojan (STI) in 40 configuration and having occcasional problem regarding chambering a round. Extraction is perfect. I am using CMC 10MM magazines and longer OAL (1.205). Any suggestions?
17, I have a .40 Kimber that runs flawlessly. I load the rounds out to 1.200" with a 180 gr. West Coast bullet. Mine will feed 1.135" OAL bullets OK. I have found Kimbers to be a little better than SAs. I currently own both. I happen to like the 10mm Metalform mags. A .40 1911 is a pretty versitle gun. It can easily make a 165 pf for IPSC Limited 10 or downloaded to a 125 pf for IDPA ESP. It's too bad that the morons that run IDPA will not allow you to shoot a .40 in CDP. Guess Bill Wilson does not make a .40 1911.
Kyle, you are correct. You have for all purposes turned the 40 into a 10mm when loaded long. But, you knew it was coming, I only have a gazillion pieces or 40 brass laying around and another bazillion of small pistol and rifle primers. Finding once fired 10 brass for free or next to it is impossible.
A longer case doesn’t always equal better accuracy. The 222 and 223 come to mind. Almost the same case, just one has a longer neck. Both will shoot bugholes.
A good crimp will give more consistent velocities.
Tens can be a bitch to get the bugs worked out of because they take so long to build up pressure. The smiths who get them to run 100% are few. It can be done, but there are a few tricks from what I understand.
My 40 loaded to 10mm length may be soft, but it feeds rough. Loaded to 1.169 it feels better.
A 40 should weigh the same as a 10.
Front sight, I am running a 13 lb recoil spring, a standard barrel and a Tg guide rod. The next time you have a problem with a round not going into battery, check for case head swelling. If your brass was shot in a Glock, it could be pretty bulged at the bottom. Roll sizing the brass is the best fix for this.
I'm another one of the people who could never quite figure out why anyone would fiddle with a .40/1911 when the 10mm is available. I've got only about 1200 rounds through my Delta, but with only one FTF up to this point, I'd say Colt figured out how to make it run. I've used four different bullets and five different mags, so I don't think it is a matter of a lucky combination. FWIW, my buddy's home-built Caspian/Speedmaster/Schuemann single stack .40 (loaded long, 10mm mags) runs great.
You've got me there, Joe. I shot a ~120-round match on sunday, and got about fifty cases back. While crawling around, finding my fifty, I could have picked-up fifty .40 cases that were left behind by other shooters.
A friend bought a .40 Colt in stainless by mistake, NIB. I ended up breaking in for him. From what I recall, it settled down to be a nice shooter, never skipped a beat, hit good at 25 yards so he kept it. Mags were harder to find, as I recall.
I too am of the club that a 10mm that works fine in a proven "stock" firearm like the Delta Elite is better than playing around with a .40 that might work. Truthfully, I would trust my Delta for carry anyday.
I understand the brass issue...but time is money too, tinkering to get a .40 1911 is a lot of time.
I will have to chime in here on the 40 vs 10mm issue. I shoot over 15,000 rounds a year, and have to replace my brass supply often. Is you look at the cost of buying 10mm brass new or once fired compared to the free brass I pick up at the police range, the difference is rather dramatic. Add to this the fact that in a carry gun, you can buy 40 at nearly any store, the 10mm loses a good amount of its luster.
Coyote, I did not have to spend any time tinkering with my .40 Kimber. It will feed 1.135" and 1.200" equally well from a 10mm mag. Actually it will feed from a .45 McCormick or Metalform mag. The only .45 mag that does not work very well is a Wilson.
I have a Colt Delta. 10mm brass is expensive, but I've accumulated about 5k of it. It lasts a long time if loaded to moderate velocities. The gun runs great, very reliable. I don't shoot it in many matches 'cause I don't want to lose any of that expensive 10mm brass. I often think about getting a .40 barrel fitted to it and long-loading .40 to fit in the 10mm magazines, since .40 brass is SO cheap (as low as $20/k).
I also have an SVI doublestack with .40 and 10mm barrels. I have to load 10mm to 1.250 or less to work in the SVI .40 mags. I've loaded .40 from 1.180 to 1.240 and it is very reliable with everything I've tried.
My first love is 10mm, but .40 is so much cheaper to shoot.
Having owned (briefly) a single-stack .40 and as one who runs a double-stack in action pistol, IPSC, and bowling pin events, let me just observe the following:
1. IN A 1911 - and ONLY a 1911 - copy, you can "load long" and get some effective loads without compromising reliability or safety. This is NOT an option for Glocks and other tarted-up wonder-9's.
2. My 170 gr. LSWC over about 4.3 grains of Red Dot takes pins off the table very nicely.
3. As others have noted, .40 S&W brass is ubiquitous and, therefore, very inexpensive. My local PD's are a marvelous source, if I get to the range before the other scroungers beat me to all that once-fired brass.
For that matter, I had no reliability problems with SAAMI-length loads; I went to the long loads after seeing all the L10 IPSC hotshots doing it.
It is argued that a long-loaded .40 is really a 10mm. Conversely, that would make a light-loaded 10mm a .40. So, why spend extra money on brass and primers only to:
a. Get the same result, or
b. Fight the recoil and muzzle flip
of the 10mm when figting a clock?
S21, I have heard good things about Dawson single stacks. Dave should be able to hook you up. Nowlin has built some winners. Best bet would be George at EGW for a once over. If George can’t fix it, its done broke. John Brandstatter of Roscoe’s Customs built mine about two years ago.
I think the big problem with short rounds like the 9x19 and the 40 in a single stack is ammo. Figure what OAL your 40 likes and go with it. My STI fat gun eats every OAL I can stuff in the mags, so I just load for my single stack. Both chrono within 30 fps of each other.
Good luck to you.
AF Shooting Team
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