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The best way to tighten (I prefer the term "adjust" or "fit") the slide to frame is by starting with an oversized frame and slide. The slide is machined to optimal specs, then the frame machined to fit the slide. Finish by hand lapping and polishing of the bearing surfaces.

If you are starting with a previously fitted frame and slide, the best procedure is to begin by blueprinting the slide tolerances. Then heat treat and build up the frame rails by welding, followed by post weld heat treat and stress relief. Finish by machining the frame to fit the slide, hand lap, and polish the bearing surfaces.

IMO slide to frame fit is one of the least important and most expensive modifications for a 1911. Only slight to minimal performance gains (if any) in accuracy and reliability will be realised from this modification. Better IMO to spend the time and money on a properly fit extractor, match barrel, good ammo and magazines.

HTH
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Steve,

I think we all get caught up into wanting things done that aren't necessary. How much would it be to do this If I were to send you the pistol. I have also heard of pinching the slide. Is this an option to the procedure you recomended. Good, Bad points. Oh and by the way are you the same guy that used to live in Pleasant Grove, UT. A friend of mine suggested you do checkering work. I am in Spanish Fork, UT

Thanks
Kevin
 

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Actually I was in American Fork, but PG is close enough. :smile:
Does your friend happen to work at the Salt Lake airport?

I'd prefer to see the frame and slide before quoting a price.

The "pinch" method involves squeezing the slide in a vise, and peening the frame.
I do not offer this modification as, IMO, it is not as durable or precise as other methods. It is very difficult to get the slide rails straight and parallel. The peening and squeezing imparts stress on the frame and slide. The bearing surface of the frame rails is reduced when the rails are lowered by peening the slide rails.

A good fit can be achieved using this method and it is quicker, easier (though not really "easy") and relatively economical.

The weld and machine method offers a better fit, maximum bearing surface, and greater durability.

Another good option is the AccuRail system designed by Bob Krieger. This involves optimizing the slide and frame dimensions, followed by installation of hardened steel rods in the frame rails. The slide then rides on the rods. When the slide/frame fit degrades, it can be "readjusted" by the user in about 5 minutes by changing out the steel rods.

HTH.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Steve, Where can I get more info on the Krieger rail system. Does he have a website. By the way the gun I am talking about is a Springfield armory Mil spec. only 10 rounds fired in gun. It is a new gun.

thanks again for the info.
 

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On 2001-07-02 00:15, rkpshooter wrote:
Steve, Where can I get more info on the Krieger rail system. Does he have a website. By the way the gun I am talking about is a Springfield armory Mil spec. only 10 rounds fired in gun. It is a new gun.

thanks again for the info.
Hi...Is there something wrong with the Mil-Specs' frame and/or slide?
 

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For the uninitiated, keep in mind that the Accu-Rail conversion is irreversible should you decide you don't like it. I shot a McCormick frame (now the STI/SVI) Open gun with them, and it made the gun fabulously smooth. However, I feel that it's excessive for most iron sighted 5" guns. The point of such a meticulous fit on scoped guns is that the slide/frame fit partially determines the relative position of the barrel to the sights, which affects accuracy. On an iron sighted gun, the sights are ON the slide, so the relative position of the barrel to the sights is not a function of the slide/frame fit.
 
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