Pistol Smith Forum banner

Spray on finish done

1814 Views 1 Reply 2 Participants Last post by  proximo
Well, I did it - I refinish the stainless Springfield and a FEG HP with black teflon moly spray. I detail stripped both and took everything outside to spray it which made it a little difficult as it was pretty windy. After letting everything dry for the prescibed time, I baked everything for the prescibed time. All parts came out a nice flat black color and everything went back together without problem. The slide movement on the 1911 was a little stiff but I used some tetra lube and cycled the slide to smooth it out. Unfortunately, when I went to testfire today I found that wasn't nearly enough. I had constant failures to go into battery and on several rounds the slide movement was so sluggish that the extractor failed to engage the cartridge rim. Teflon was smeared all over the front and back of the barrel hood. I had deliberated sprayed the locking lugs and slide rail bearing surfaces as I figured that the lubricity of teflon couldn't do anthing but help reliablity but , boy, was I wrong. All I can say is that you don't want to spray the frame rails or the locking lugs and leave the paint in them. When I got home, I used a wire brush on my dremel to get the paint out along with the firing residue. It seems to be cycling much better now but the proof will be in the next firing, I guess. The other concern is durability. There are already several spots along the bottom of the left rail where tiny bits have flaked off as well as a larger spot on the slide stop pin end. I haven't had any of these problems on the FEG, though. I guess the tolerances are just that much looser that the paint isn't affecting anything. I'll post again after the next firing to say how things went.
1 - 1 of 2 Posts
It sounds like you have serious finish buildup problems. These finishes are designed to be sprayed on very thin; just enough to cover the metal and no more.

I think you might be best served to break the pistol in again "dry" (i.e. with no lubrication at all). The teflon/moly finish is lubing the pistol now and since you've got finish buildup problems, you want to wear off the excess finish. Adding tetra lube isn't going to help do that. Shoot 100 or so rounds through it bone dry and I think you'll find your cycling problems will go away. If not, you might consider sand/bead blasting it clean and trying again. Just remember, you want to use as little
finish as necessary to cover the metal. That's where an airbrush comes in handy.

If you have finish flaking off of parts, its because its not adhering to the metal usually because there is some oil remaining (skin oil from fingerprings?) on the metal surface. Use vinyl gloves to handle the parts after degreasing.

Also, you should keep in mind that while these finishes have great resistance to corrosion, they wear about like a decent parkerized finish so they will scratch and they will show holster wear pretty readily. The good thing is that they are easy to repair by wiping down the effected area with acetone and re-applying the finish.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: proximo on 2001-05-07 10:10 ]</font>
See less See more
1 - 1 of 2 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.