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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What the board's thoughts about the trigger stop screw being a liability on a fighting pistol?

Have you ever had a trigger stop screw work itself loose and keep the pistol from firing?
 

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I got that same report from Farnham, on the student with the trigger stop screw that crept in and disabled the pistol.

Good story, I agree that they can be a liability. Of course, these triggers are one of the most-requested
features, and the o'travel stop does do a lot for the perceived trigger pull. On
some pistols, the "pull through" will bind the disconnector and cause some
impedence to the cycle (though rarely enough to cause a stoppage); the stop will
make it go away, as sort of the easy way out.

On triggers that I modify myself (as opposed to tailor-mades), I bottom-out a
stop screw in a blind (not through)hole, cross-pin it with a roll pin, and then file
it into adjustment. It is essentially a solid part of the trigger,
non-adjustable. More often, when an aftermarket trigger is being used, I make
damn damn damn sure that screw is tight by peening in the hole slightly. I hate
depending on LocTite for anything so important, although in reality it is up to
the job when used properly.... between the peening and LocTite, the screw will
stay as long as nobody fools with it excessively, and probably then some.

On AR's, I put a screw in for o'travel, but it is not adjustable. It's a little
4-40 button head screw that goes in from the outside. Again it is bottomed out,
on the head, and then milled into adjustment. In this case, if it should come
loose, the only way it can go is to allow more overtravel, and if it comes out,
it falls free instead of into the action.

Kned (the "K" is silent)
 

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What is the proper way to adjust the screw? I just bought a used Colt Gov't model and the set screw was almost all the way in. I backed it out a little bit at a time and I could not detect any difference in trigger pull or overtravel(if that is the correct term). The pull does seem stiffer than a Kimber classic I rented at a range once.

TIA for any info and aplogies if this is a dumb question. :smile:

Dan
 

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I would suggest 1/8" overtravel for the average do-it-yourselfer. A gunsmith can set it a bit closer, but he can determine hammer notch lengths, etc. and all the details that go into over-travel adjustment.

Make sure your gun is unloaded. Looking at the trigger, slowly dry-fire your gun. Note the trigger position at the exact time the hammer falls. Now see how much further back the trigger moves. That is your over-travel. Turning the screw in shortens the over-travel - turning it out increases the over-travel.

If you are unsure of what I have described, best to leave it alone. You could wreck your hammer/sear, or worse - your pistol may go full-auto.
 
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The individual in Farnam's message was my student and his gun was stone cold dead until I managed to get the stop screw out. Couldn't even be uncocked. I've never had a stop on any of my guns and after that incident, I never will. I'm glad it happened at the range and not when he was trying to arrest someone.
 

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Fine on guns I do not carry, but on the guns I carry, Colt Commander, BHP, P7, Kel Tecs, there are no trigger stops. Like trigger shoes, they have no place on carry guns in my opinion. GLV
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I just finished a 3 day Awerbuck pistol course. Two of the students had their trigger stop screws back out enough to keep the gun from firing. One pistol this happpend to was a Baer Thunder Ranch Special. I would have thought this of all guns would have had no trigger stop screw or had the screw secured in some bomb proof manner. A $2,000 pistol stopped by 5 cent screw!

My trigger stop screws have now been tossed into the nearest bush.
 

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On 2001-09-05 22:58, JacRyan wrote:
Is there any harm if you take the trigger stop out of a trigger? Obviously it would have to NOT effect functioning, but what about feel as well?

TIA
You'll simply get a longer trigger stroke.
 

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My 1996A2 might be going back to WC in the near future for "other matters," but could they pin it or weld it? Seems like welding is the best solution, but others here are experts on this and I am not.

How much should I expect something like this to cost and is it considered permanent?

Thank all.
 
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