I have a holster for my second model Woodsman, made to my order in 1949 by a now famous Idaho holstermaker (in 1949 he was all but unknown) that has never marked the finish of my pistol. I had him line the rig with chamois. It worked then and it still works now. Suede is a poor substitute for chamois.
If you want a non-marking holster, or one that is not rough on a blued finish, use a Kydex or Concealex holster. No problems there, either.
Before he became obcessed with
blocking", or heating and "forming" leather, I had Kramer make me a plain holsterl for my 1911 of horsehide. He made it from a piece of leather jacket material (front quarter) that was over 30 years old. Nevwer a problem with it, and the pistol draws like greased kilowatts.
My Kydex holsters are dead smooth and the pistol draws from them easily. My drawer full of top quality (Kramera) holsters that are formed are slightly slower and any advantage of a formed holster is "point of sale" (gee, it looks great!). Strangely, I always thought that the purpose of a holster was to remain concealed until the draw. Nobody should ever see the molding, forming, cooking or whatever. As far as retantion is concerned, I taught weapon retention in police science classes, and forming leather over a gun has nothing to do with it. If the holster is fitted with a proper catch, it will not let the pistol fall out when you do inside loops.
I'm afraid that most of the writeups of holsters in the gun mags are a result of the writer receiving a freebie, rather than an objective test. (At least this holds true for the gun writers I associate with.)
Years ago, several famous U.S. holstermakers
prodluced their premium holsters for professionals from front quarter horsehide. Many of these are still in daily use. None were ever formed and pressed over a gun's contours. Plastic holsters have brought the price down to $20, and these are injection molded and form fit; they fit better than leather. Each example has no defects.