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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Classic example of what happens when you bump a 30lpi checkering pattern.

This is a stainless Kimber that was never perfect or sharp in the first place. Think what the same "bump" would do to your $4000 Heinie or BCP or to EGWs perfect checkering job?




I sell and use them, the BCP "WAVE", Dick's "SCALLOPS" or Ned's, "CONAMYDS". I have guns in 30lpi, 25lpi and 20lpi checkering. There are better answers these days for concealed carry and for durability.

THE WAVE



Look close and you'll see where a 20 lpi checkering job was cleaned up (center of the patten are two flat diamonds) from similar damage. #30lpi is almost impossible to fix and fraglie, 25 and 20 less so.




30 LP checkering after a heavy bead blast..



Heinie SCALLOPS (also offered by BCP)


Ned's Michigun Arms CONAMYDS (send me a Jpeg Ned and I'll post this full size)


I have always thought that checkering was a sales pitch forced upon the custom gun buyer. It is too fragile and too sticky for the majority of applications and uses of a hand gun.

Look around, the custom 1911 gun market has changed..and in my opinion it has changed for the better for US the shooters!


<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Dane Burns on 2001-11-18 18:38 ]</font>
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Blindhog's pattern was first done by Marc Krebs as the "snake skin gun " AH piece several years ago. Good stuff I think. It was ahead of it's time and done right, it istime consuming. Now BH and Brown are doing it.



The Kimber gun shown was bumped against another in a hard sided carry case. I had a plater do the same thing to a gun and basically wreck the gun...two of them actually. I no longer use that Texas plater no matter how fast his turn around time.

The 20 lpi gun has razor sharp checkering and was dinged while I was using it as a duty gun. How, I don't know. But it took some little effort with a neddle file, stripping a chrome job and rechroming the frame and parts so they would match cosmetically.

The mag well and razor sharp 20 lpi checkering was machine cut in the early 80's by Ron Sharp. I hand finished the checkering, mag well and fitted the grips..actually over a 18 year period, a few sets of grips and built the rest of the gun. My/BCP's new forged mag well won't be as large an opening and a cleaner design.

"Booger's" posts are being deleted because he is posting under an alias, in case any one wonders. I didn't particularly like the look of the "WAVE" either originally. From follows function in a hard use gun.



<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Dane Burns on 2001-11-18 01:39 ]</font>
 

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I have a project that I have chosen serrations (it is not too late to change, but I am happy). I have been debating whether to get the 'wave' instead, but this project will be very classic, and I think they just do not fit.

What lpi of serrations would you recommend for the most grip?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
25 lpi serrations seem to work the best IMO and look good on a classic gun. Colt used 20lpi or 18lpi.

Sorry most guns that have been checkered will need to be kept checkered. Just not economically feesable to fill and recut them.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Dane Burns on 2001-11-18 18:04 ]</font>
 

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Whatever happened to stimpling? (SP?) It that passe these days? And if not passee then how would you rate it against the other styles? I.E. the Wave, Conamyds, Checkering or Scallops?
 

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The above pictured Kimber is my gun. The truth about how the checkering got screwed up is that I had it in my hand when Dane gave me the bill for the cost of working on five of my guns this past week and that's how hard I reacted to the amount. Well, I handed over a half inch of $100's to Danes' lovely wife which seemed to please her, especially when she saw the look on Danes' face when he saw her with the money. Anyway, Dane thank you for all the help this past week and know that I now think that all my new CQB's feel awkward. See you in a few weeks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Always a pleasure to deal with another professional Keith! I wondered why there was blood coming from under that front strap after I showed you the invoice :grin:

Now a "WAVE" would have not have drawn blood but also allowed you to maintain control of the weapon while you were beating me away from my ill gotten gains :roll: And not been damaged :lol:

Gotta say it was TRUE pleasure to sleep in this morning after sending Keith and my new office help home on Saturday :grin:

My only hope is they both WILL return!!


<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Dane Burns on 2001-11-18 18:47 ]</font>
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
On 2001-11-18 15:49, Torpedo wrote:
Whatever happened to stimpling? (SP?) It that passe these days? And if not passee then how would you rate it against the other styles? I.E. the Wave, Conamyds, Checkering or Scallops?
Some where on list Ned and I rated the textures for grip abrasion in our opions/experiences. Can't find the post but someone else might post that link to the comparison of each.

Stimpling is a alternative. I think all of the things mentioned here do the job better for end result. But serrations , scateboard tape and stimpling all have their advocates.

I really like vertical serrations too and checkering in 25lpi for different uses. But the "WAVE" surpasses both and is more durable than either.


On 2001-11-18 12:57, gyp_c2 wrote:
What's a
"Booger"

...anyway?
"Booger" is a who, and an alias, a working pistolsmith decided to use on this forum knowing full well he was in violation of our requests.


<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Dane Burns on 2001-11-18 18:45 ]</font>
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I have to say the latest guns from Brown I have seen pictures of with the "snake skin", ala Mark Krebs, are impressive. Brown's newest frames and slides are from Caspian by the look of them and I am going to order one for myself. I really like the combination of matching grips tectures and cocking serrations. I have several guns in my shop now that I am working on with the same set up with the "WAVE". Ned Christianson is doing a gun with/for me with the same set up again but with the "Conamyds" on frame and slide.

There are some mighty fine 1911s being builtthese days!
 

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Those are really nice frontstraps and you have just talked me out of checkering on my planned 1911. I would guess that the pattern that entails the least amount of handwork would be the least expensive, or are they all pretty labor intensive (though less than checkering, obviously)?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Anything is more durable than checkering :grin:

I am not a big fan of stimpling or matting. I don't think it adds enough grip for the effort involved to add it to a gun. I also don't like the cosmetics and the problems it causes with plating...chrome in particular. Many will certainly disagree with me though. Novak's does a very nice job at it as did Brian Bilby. I have samples of each in my collection. If I want that little texture I think skate board tape is a better answer and a better surface for a handgun at that level.

But to be honest about it while I rag on checkering for many folks it works just fine and will last several lifetimes. Most people just don't use their guns that hard or as tools, especially expensive, custom 1911s. I can break a rock, so I am very particular with what I would want as a tool these days. I am always looking for a better surface treatment for grip and durability.

I will be using 4 new grip textures in the next few moths to see which one I prefer while shooting. I'll update the list when I get some additioanl personal feedback.
 

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On 2001-11-24 23:10, Dane Burns wrote:
Anything is more durable than checkering :grin:

But to be honest about it while I rag on checkering for many folks it works just fine and will last several lifetimes. Most people just don't use their guns that hard or as tools, especially expensive, custom 1911s. I can break a rock, so I am very particular with what I would want as a tool these days. I am always looking for a better surface treatment for grip and durability.
I was curious Dane, if you are that hard on the metal of a pistol do you break wood grips very often?
 
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